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[email protected] jurb6006@gmail.com is offline
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Default RCF ART300A speaker

The horn is DC coupled ? Why the hell would they do that ? Sometimes I wonder what kind of drugs these enginers are on.

I was on audiokarma the other day and someone mentioned a protect circuit that wa powered by the DC from the amp. Not hard to figure out how it works, it is a matter of finding a relay, normally closed of course, that will activate at a low enough voltage and current. Couple resistors going to a bridge and a filter should do it.

I commented about finding a suitable relay, someone replied that it has been done and I might be abe to find the link if anyone wants it.

Another thing was about the magnets on the sides of the relay, remember that thread ? you said that it was to draw the arc away from betweent the point so they would be less likely to weld themselves together due to the inductive CEMF.

I posted that a cap, like a 10 uF or whatever, across the cntacts should work just fine. The guy on AK said it might still pass some sound and I replied in the who cares ? you only care about that DC. If the amp is still putting out sound with a ****load of DC on the output, well isn't that just dandy. So what ?

My Phase Linear 400 Series 2 has no relay, no nothing. My buddy's Adcom GFA545-2 is the same. Both of these amps have plenty of current to smoke things. an Ampzilla is the same way. Depends on a fuse. **** really.

At any rate, with the right relay there could be a decent addon protector for this.

I also happen to like SCR crowbar protection. I like the SOUND of "crowbar protection" actually, and how it works. I designed a bridged car amp a loing time ago used that. Of course must short out the drive to the outputs when it is active, which it did. If any fusibles blow, then something is shorted for sure.

I said at the time "This baby is more than idiot proof, you hook up the speaker outputs to the car battery it will burn the wires off.

I like cool **** like that. The UL or CSA or whatever might not, but I do.