I don't really understand your plan, so I don't
have an opinion about that, but I just wanted to
note one thing, in case you don't know:

Lexan is nearly unbreakable and may be the best
choice, but it scratches easily. In time your back
window is likely to look rather murky. Rain-x or
similar products will help a bit, but it's just very
hard to keep Lexan unscratched. (I use it myself for
the back windows of my home-made pickup truck
cap. For that it works out well. The windows
are clear enough to see traffic behind me but not
clear enough for people to easily look in to see what
I've got in back.)


"micky" wrote in message
...
| Questions about bonding lexan to vinyl. Was What does this mean ,
| on my Lexan?
|
| A thread about replacing the shattered glass of a Toyota convertible
| rear windows with a piece of Lexan.
|
| I was thinking, that instead of using individual plastic screws and
| nuts, or individual poprivets, to bond my lexan widow to the vinyl
| border that the original glass used to adhere to, I would be better off
| with a strip of metal, like one long washer, in which I'd drill holes
| that also went through the lexan and the vinyl. Maybe 4 holes in 12
| inches, every 3 inches. After all the holes in the upper piece of
| metal were drilled, that piece could be a pattern for a lower piece, to
| sandwich the lexan and vinyl and lessen the strain where the actual
| holes are.
|
| Good idea?
|
| Less good for the bottom, which is one long curve, shaped like a ) on
| its side.
|
| What else should I consider wrt this?
|
| (The way of handling thetop of the window is still being decided,
| because the fabric curtain above the window has shrunk it seems. For
| two years I used a piece of an old black convertible top, stuck to the
| glass at the bottom, and the original curtain at the top with VHB
| adhesive tape, which worked amazingly well.)
|
| Thanks.