DIYbanter - View Single Post - Brake pedal goes half-way to the floor, only the first time

J Burns

On 11/2/14, 4:52 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2014 06:40:48 -0800 (PST), N8N
wrote:

On Sunday, November 2, 2014 9:07:35 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:

I'd like to see opinions from auto manufacturers one using these
on brake hoses. My concern would be that you run the risk of
damaging the hose, possibly resulting in later failure. And even
if you did use them to pinch the hoses, I would think they would
cut off the fluid while you changed a caliper. I tend to doubt
they are going to hold pressure enough to test the brakes with
pedal pressure for functionality.

I actually agree with you; I have used them but would prefer to use
a pedal jack to e.g. change a caliper. It's good to have them but
I only use them when nothing else will do what I need it to do.

I don't know about the plastic ones but the metal ones should hold
pressure in the situation the OP describes.

nate
I not only think they will, I KNOW they will. I've done it hundreds
of times. I've even used them to drive a car back to the shop after
it blew a fles hose (rear - body to axle) several times. (several
different vehicles) It was a very quick and accurate way to
determine where a low pedal problem came from. Block off the rear
flex, pedal comes up, rear brake problem, no use looking for the
trouble in the rear. Pedal doesn't come up? go to right front. Pedal
doesn't come up? go to left front. Still doesn't come up? look into
the master.

Trader 4 sounds right to me. I'd be scared to clamp a line made for
3,000 PSI.

I remember a car that came in smelling like burning brakes. I jacked up
the hot wheel and couldn't get the disk brake to release except by
loosening the bleeder. When I tried a stop on the road, the car pulled
to the other side, showing that the problem brake wasn't getting full
pressure. When I parked, I had to loosen the bleeder to release the brake.

It was as if something had kinked the line. I replaced it. Not long
afterward, the same thing happened to the other side.

I suppose normal braking pressure might be 1,000 PSI. It would take a
tight clamp to stop it. If I clamped it tight, I'd be afraid that down
the road I'd have a "kink" or a leak.

In view of the great damage from hitting the curb, the hub might have so
much runout that it might not require a gauge to detect it. Just a
ruler on a stable surface, held down by a weight, with the end pressed
against the hub. And some feeler gauges.