I'll press again for keeping things supported between centers until you're
almost done.
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeorge/index.html
Now the game is to keep the tool rest as close to the piece as you can, so
as to give away minimum mechanical advantage. As you can see, I work with
the tool at centerline or below, and I cut _into_ the piece, not _up_ and
into the piece. Suggest until you're more confident you cut with the gouge
rolled to present more as a "C" rather than a "U" where you're letting the
wings do the cutting. Later on you'll probably hog right on in.

Move the toolrest a lot to keep close as you're hollowing, even if you are
using a bowl gouge, and press the tool to the rest, not into the side of the
wood. If you try to press outward (ride the bevel) into the cut rather
than guide and pare the curve, you'll get vibration from the difference in
grain orientation, especially if you strive for thin. Some say to increase
speed if you get chatter, but in my experience that just makes a different
chatter pattern. If you remember that it is outward pressure that helps the
wood distort and chatter, then you can remove the pressure, cutting the wood
again.


"moggy" wrote in message
...
Well, have had my lathe since December now, mastered the old light pull
and
other items, decided to turn to bowls and hollowing. I don't have too many
problems with the outside, but hollowing, whatever tool I use, just seems
to
dig in. What tools do you recommend for hollowing, say just a small
shallow
bowl. I have a bowl gouge, several skew chisels, a parting tool and a
couple
of scrapers (and a couple of roughing out gouges of course)


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.580 / Virus Database: 367 - Release Date: 06/02/2004