DJ posted for all of us...

I may not have read all messages.


replying to borne, DJ wrote:
borne wrote:

I have a 30 year old septic system and the guy who pumped it out
recently tried to sell me on having a separate leach field installed
for the washing machine. He says it would prolong the life of the
main septic system, espeically now that our kids are getting to the
age where we are doing lots of laundry. It sounds logical,
considering the washing machine dumps lots of water, detergent and
bleach into the main system. Our old wash machine is 12 years old and
showing signs of its age. I will probably be getting a new unit
within a year that uses less water.
But I wanted to get more opinions before I do anything.
If I do go through with it, it will mean running a drain line through
a wall into the garage, then running it along the inside wall of the
garage about 20 feet and through the exterior wall before going
underground. Any concerns there?



STEP One: Become familiar with related codes in your area. Often a person
can be fined HEAVILY for taking the actions suggested thus far[although
there are some splendid suggestions].
Step Two: This what I have done in the past:
1- Dig a hole large enough to accommodate a 55 gal drum and a
considerable amount of rock. Best to use rock NOT in the limestone
family[it tends to breakdown and become almost like a crush-n-run after a
period of repeated water saturation... clogging the drainage area].
2- Drill MULTIPLE holes in the drum for drainage.
3- Apply a layer of rock in the bottom of the dug hole before drum
placement 4-6 inches should suffice... more is better in this application.
4- Set drum[as upright as possible], begin filling around drum with
rock... you want the rock around the drum wide enough to allow leaching
[min 18-24 inches]... this will alter with type of soil in area. Also note
that during the draining process, a sandy soil may leach back into the
rock bed causing blockage. Two cycles of an older washing machine will
darn near fill a 55 gal drum. Many of the newer machines use considerably
less water.
5- Run the drainage line to the larger bung-hole of the drum... some elect
to go with oversized piping which is a good move also and can be done by
cutting a mating diameter hole in the UPPER SIDE of the drum just below
where the lid fits.
6-Seal entry connection with a marine type caulking, as best you can.
[This side entry also is good because it maintains a better, straight,
direct, flow].
7- Finish filling area around drum with rock. Cover drum with rock a few
inches...
8- top that with heavy mil plastic layer... another thin layer of rock and
finish covering with dirt/topsoil.
Here is another option I did. The secondary bung-hole should have
inserted in it a small piece of thick wall PVC that comes up ABOVE ground
level but below lawn-mower level. It should be well sealed at point it
enters the drum. This is to allow air to escape and thusly no back
pressure to the washing machine and if water comes through this pipe you
know that the leaching process is not fast enough for the machine use.
Corrections will need to be made. The same steps can apply for "two drum"
systems which may be an option dependent on amount of use.
Expense incurred: Cost of the drum[s], additional piping,
sealant/caulking, rock[ I found recycled concrete works good, size #4{it
has *some* limestone... however during the recycling process most of that
characteristic is removed. If you pick it up/not delivered under $20 a
ton], your labor. The labor worth varies according to type of ground you
are working in ;o)

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I think (my opinion only) is that a premade plastic french drain tank would
be better, it would have the holes in it and have a cover that one would not
have to kludge fittings into.

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Tekkie