View Single Post
  #3   Report Post  
BigWallop
 
Posts: n/a
Default anyone know how to diagnose a faulty Choke / Ballast in fluorescent light circuit


"nick" wrote in message
om...
Hi all

I'm hoping somebody knows more about this than I do.

We have a standard fluorescent light that has stopped working.
I have replaced the tube and starter with known working ones and
still light doesnt work.


Stop there. If you've replaced both the tube and starter lamp and it still
ain't working, then the fitting itself is at fault and needs replaced. You
don't have to go any further with more tests and the like. You need a new
fitting.


With the light switch on, I measured 240 volts going into the Choke,
but zero volts coming out of the choke.

From this I assumed the Choke was faulty (is this a correct
assumption)
Also I took out the Choke and no current passes through it using an
Ohmmeter/
Multimeter connected across the 2 terminals.
Again I figured the Choke must be faulty / open circuit from this (is
this
correct?)

I then replaced the 40W Choke with a similar thing from an old fitting
called a Ballast hoping this would fix the light.
It didnt - although for some unknown reason the light did come on for
about 5 minutes then died after putting the outer light casing back on
for the night????
Now when I switch on, there is a very dim light just at both ends of
the tube.

By the way the ballast I put in is 65W (is this important when the old
unit
was a 40W choke. The light tubes are 40W.)

I am still left wondering if the Choke is faulty, and if it is then
why isnt
the replacement ballast not working. (Yes I did connect it up the same
way)

Thanks for any help and advice
(Im surprised this isnt more of a common problem - I couldnt find
anyone
experiencing this same problem)

Regards
Nick



---
BigWallop

http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.495 / Virus Database: 294 - Release Date: 30/06/03