Thread: A new tool!
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Leon[_7_] Leon[_7_] is offline
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Default A new tool!

On 9/2/2014 9:15 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/2/14, 8:26 AM, Leon wrote:
"FTG" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...



wrote:
On Sat, 30 Aug 2014 17:06:52 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.precisioncasewerk.com/products.html I'll post a
review as I proceed with this job.

I considered buying Woodpecker's hole jig, but it's not nearly in
the class of the Precision Casewerk hole tool.

http://www.woodpeck.com/shelfpintemplate.html

If you are still looking, the Rockler JIG IT® Shelving Jig
w/Self-Centering Bit works really well. I just wanted something
that would do more. As I mentioned I was originally looking for a
jig for drilling holes accurately and quickly for drawer and door
pulls. The line boring accessory was a nice plus...

I had a project a few years ago that required almost 1000 shelf
pins. I started using the Rockler Jig and self centering bit.
After an hour of drilling holes with the self centering bit I
switched to a plunge router. The 3/8" base plate bushing for a PC
690 fits perfectly into the jig holes. I ground the end of the
bushing down so that it did not bottom out in the jig, installed a
1/4" bit and finished the job in a quarter of the time it would
have taken me with the drill bit..


I find that extremely hard to believe. I have seen most all
woodworking shows use a plunge router for this purpose but they
seldom continue to do so. I would think that lifting a tool that is
twice as heavy would be slower. I really don't see any advantage that
would make the router faster. Can you explain where the time savings
comes in?


I have yet to find one of those shelf-pin bits with the spring mechanism
and centering bushing that didn't clog and have to be fiddled with to
unclog every few holes. I spend more time unclogging the bit than
drilling holes, so a router would save time in that instance.


There is that but I always used a fast speed so that the clogging was
not an issue of consideration for me. Now with a smaller 5mm bit that
might become more of an issue. I know that the smaller Vix bits that I
use do clog more the smaller I go.




However, as you stated, using a router to drill a 1/4" hole is kind of
like using a 16' extension ladder to reach the top of the fridge. Since
I usually drill my shelf pin holes after assembly, the router would be
the worst option. If I were drilling 1000 pin holes and had all the
case sides lined up on benches with jigs clamped up, ready to go in a
production scenario, then the router would be the way to go.


Perhaps the advantage is being able to leave the router running and not
waiting for the bit to spin compared to using a corded drill with out a
brake. The Rockler bit was a brad point so there was little issue with
tear out and that bit worked for countless years, well 20+ with out
having to replace or resharpen the bit. When drilling hundreds of holes
my biggest issue is a short jig that has to be repositioned often, the
weight of the machine that I am having to reposition with every hole and
the spring resistance that I have to over come. The Kreg jig with its
hardened steel guides and standard brad point bit was a big improvement
over the spring loaded bit. The problem with the Kreg was 4~5 holes at
a time before repositioning. I simply can't imagine myself picking up a
router, repositioning, and pushing against plunge springs hundreds of
times. And that only works if there are no obstacles.




The time savings is all these situations always comes into play *after*
any jigs are already set up and clamped up and ready for boring. The
beauty of the Rockler/Woodcraft/Bench Dog shelf pin jigs is there is
next to no set up required out of the box.

I can grab my Woodcraft pin jig from the toolbox drawer and take it to a
bookcase without a tape measure or clamp or pencil and start drilling
perfectly spaced holes. Jig in one hand, drill in the other and ready
to go.


Basically the same with the True position drill guide. You can use each
12 hole plate alone or paired with the guide. With the guide you slip
the plates on the guide until they stop and tighten 2 thumb screws on
each side and you are ready to go for 24 holes.

Jeez I remember doing them with a drill press way back when. LOL