Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

It depends on what kind of mortar you're using. 'Better follow the
supplier's instructions.

Most lime mortars cure well wet or dry, but tend to effloresce if
kept wet after curing, about like plasters do, but not nearly so
badly. Do as block/brick/stone masons do. Put it on as wet as will
sustain the load of the stone/brick/block, and just let it cure until
cheezy enough to strike the joints -- then leave it be.

Lloyd

Well ... I'm bedding the floor stones graded 2"-2 1/2" thick in a mix
of 5 parts masonry mix , 1 portland , 3 sand , and 1thinset mortar . This
gives a mortar that's really sticky when mixed on the dry side and stays
very plastic as it sets . Makes it possible to adjust a rock that's been set
for a few minutes without breaking the bond . I'm also laying on top of a
layer of tarpaper so differential expansion wood sub , 3/4" Advantech with
1/2" OSB screwed and glued doesn't tear things up . I'll be covering it
with plastic when I finish filling the joints . Then , it'll be the wall ...
which is a totally different technique . It'll also be covered with a vapor
barrier for a couple of weeks minimum .
Actually , I was being sarcastic when I asked that question ... I still
remember when my Grandpa poured the floor for his garage , several hours
after they finished troweling it he scattered some straw over it and covered
it with tarps to control evaporation . I had to be like 10 or 11 , which
would put it around 1962 or 63 ...
--
Snag