The fly has two controls on it usually. the top on is focus and the bottom one is G2, or "screen" voltage. That refers to an element of the electron gun in the tube. the voltage required on that element varies from tube to tube, as much as from 100 volts to a thousand. It all depends. Your unit probably runs at about 400-600 volts.

Nopraslly in that type of unit, the CRT gets weak, and since you keep restarting it, the cathode's heat is higher, and eventually wil warm up fast enough o that the microprocessor in the TV will not shut it down.

To cause the sale of another new TV, which they just happen to build.

On those models, look at the picture whiile increasing the G2/screeen control. When you see it start looking like a good picture rather than a cartoon, you are getting there. the trick is to not go too far.

I have not ofund a way to defeat this shutdown if the CRT bias cannot bring it within close enough so it does not shut down. Nobody would pay me to do it because they are not worth all that much.

At the shop, I would not put more than thirty minutes into diagnosing that. Even if I did, any major part and 90 % of the time it is junked when you ge the estimate.

But this is SER, and that means repair. SOmetimes is matters not is it is economically logical. Soe people want some experirence. Some people want their old **** from highschool to work again, like that old Marantz and ****. OH YEAH.

The TV you got is not vintage. Really, it is not worth fixing at all. But the thing is is you are not here for a sales pitvch for new TVs. You want to gian knowledge.

Cool. I will help. So take and turn that G2 control up, the bottom one ont eh flybacks, exactly 12 degrees. I mean get a protractor. Do it while the set is off even. I will bet you will see a lot better picture and it will stop shutting down on you.

Now, if you want to learn more...