On 07-Aug-14 9:28 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
amdx fired this volley in news:lrvtv1$nfg$1@dont-
email.me:

That's what I was trying to convey, the door and window foam.
I wonder how it would come out of you pinched or restricted the tube
on one of the door and window foam cans? Could you get a spray?

No, not a useful one. 'Boxing' the beam with some light framing, then
filling the void end-to-end would be the easiest way with that material.
You could even use a piece of plastic gutter material as the trough.

All that said, it would prevent the drip, but not expose the underlying
cause. I'm prone to 'waste' the time it would take to understand it
before I worked around the problem. It might not be soluble without
extensive structural changes. Then the foam would be the ideal solution.

But it also might be as simple as pulling out a few screws, sliding in a
thermal barrier between roof and beam, and putting the screws back in.

LLoyd



Thanks for the ideas guys.

I like the idea of insulating the beam surface. I may be able to find
some thin self adhesive insulation - cheap & effective.

The thermal barrier idea is interesting but will be difficult as I
initially thought is was water leakage (its winter here) and I've pretty
much glued the cladding to the beam with silicone rubber (silastic). The
thing I don't get is that the beam is the full length of the workshop
and it only gets condensation over the top of the door frame. Everything
else is equal - that's why I figured it was from air leakage around the
door.

I'll head to our big hardware retailer and see what insulation they have.

Cheers.