On Monday, July 28, 2014 6:11:53 PM UTC-5, SteveB wrote:

Thanks for the excellent info. What kind of clearcoat? I have used

McClauskey's (?) before. Is that overkill, or would a generic do as

well? Suggestions? Is there any chance of stain/varnish reacting with

clear coat and bubbling? I had a car do that once.

Hope it helps, Steve.

My suggestion will make many here gasp with dispair... I would use Minwax clear, oil based polyurethane. While I don't have the results, articles, tests, documents or other cites for you, I can tell you it always winds up in the top 10% in blind testing by professionals. And those findings always result in indignant screaming, teeth gnashing, gasps of disbelief, and outright denial.

Other finishes have to be better... after all, they cost more so that must mean better, right? Plain old Minwax and Defthane work well for me. Minwax takes the edge though as it dries harder, and makes a more abrasion resistant top coat. Believe me, I have tried just about everything (practical) under the Sun if it will make me money, save me time and give a good finish.. And being a professional, most companies will send me their product to try as a sample.

I have my favorite, but it is expensive and must be sprayed. So with that in mind, I wouldn't have any problem at all with Minwax. I have put it on desk tops, and just left a long time client's house today that has a dining room table I finished with Minwax. Still looks perfect; it is a dining room table, a get together table, a craft table, cookie making table when the kids are around, etc. In a rake light, the table finish is still excellent and there are very few minor scratches. I would give that top finish a hearty thumbs up as it is about 5-6 years old now and actually looks new. It is three coats of Minwax "satin" over hard maple butcher block. The table top was sanded naked (to 220gr to remove the old finish completely), washed with lacquer thinner, and the material applied with a pad.

NO SANDING BETWEEN COATS. NONE. Just sayin'...

If your surface is clean you will have no bubbling simply because you applied your finish over stain. Remember to stir your coating, no shaking allowed. If you have any problems, it will be because you overwork the application of the urethane and pick up the stain with your applicator. Even if you don't see it, you can easily mottle the color and shadings by repeatedly going over a surface to "smooth out" the applicator marks.

Since I spray everything possible, I don't worry about that. But if you are hand applying and find the stain is picking up (check for ANY color on your applicator) then stop, spray dewaxed shellac on the surface, then carry on with your top coat in a couple of hours. The bottom of one of those seats would be my test bed for not only color, but proper application technique and method.

Robert