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SteveB[_15_]

On 7/26/2014 2:06 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, July 26, 2014 10:22:32 AM UTC-5, SteveB wrote:
I bought five connected fold down theater chairs. Looks like 50's.

They are made of laminated wood, similar to plywood, and are curved.

The type like they used to make curved barstools and chairs and desks

out of. They are in decent shape, but are separating a little here and

there. What would I use to get them back to original. I would imagine

glue inserted in the cracks and held together with a clamp of wood

pieces band saw cut to fit the contour. Which type of glue:

My suggestions. Remember what you paid for them. This is classic refinishing 101.

Take the whole set apart after you label/number each piece. Remove all hardware.

Buy a good finish stripper and strip the pieces once at a time. I use

Kleen Strip in the orange can (K5?). Wash with cheap lacquer thinner,

not soap and water, water, or anything else. Lacquer thinner.
Inspect all

wood surfaces for damage, staining, etc., to decide if you want to clear

coat, stain, paint, etc. Determination of your coating will determine how

much you finish sand before coating application.

Repair wood as needed. Cut cauls to conform to shapes as needed. Use

filler pieces of wood if pieces of edge laminate are missing. For this

type of repair I use 30 minute epoxy I buy at Hobby Lobby. I use epoxy

for its holding power, but also for its ability to harden. If you use a

wood glue and the surfaces aren't clean, there may be adhesion problems.

If you fill in a bit with epoxy, it won't shrink later, and if needed,

the epoxy will harden enough to successfully fill voids. If any of it

is exposed, then the surface of the glue should be treated or roughed up

(as with any other glue) before finishing. When you are repairing, fill

any worn screw holes with a soft wood plug and yellow glue to make

sure new screws will grab. This needs to be done now, not later so you

can sand down the plugs as needed before applying your finish.

Apply your desired finish to the wood/laminate.

Use the same method for the metal hardware, but remove all rust and carefully

clean any pivot areas that probably received lubricants over the years to

prevent squeaking. Lubricants can dry up, their solvents leave and they

can turn to a gummy material that won't hold finish.

Prime the metal before you paint. All of it, not just the bare metal.

Buy new screws, bolts, nuts, and whatever else you need to reassemble.

These aren't priceless antiques so don't worry about authenticity. Take

your mechanical fasteners with you and match them up on the hardware

store's rack.

Put it all back together.

As you can see, it is a process. If you skip steps, you will pay for it later.
Be patient, dont' get in a hurry and plan your work.

Robert

Thanks for the excellent info. What kind of clearcoat? I have used
McClauskey's (?) before. Is that overkill, or would a generic do as
well? Suggestions? Is there any chance of stain/varnish reacting with
clear coat and bubbling? I had a car do that once.

Thanks again.

Steve