On 7/22/2014 7:37 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/22/2014 6:08 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/21/2014 10:05 AM, Leon wrote:
Once every thing is smooth I move to the next grit and typically to my
finish sander and only moving the sander in the direction of the grain.
And right at the tee-joint line ... what? Do you try to just barely
touch the edge? I'm trying to get an idea of how big an issue this is.
If you are talking about the butt joint where like a rail and stile
join, I sand that with ROS usually down to 150 grit and pay no
attention to grain. Then the transition or joint is smooth I switch to
my finish sander and the same 150 grit and will try to only move the
sander in the direction of the grain. I first run the sander along the
piece that runs into the other. If I go too far, into the mating board
with the grain running 90 degrees to the piece I am sanding, I work that
out when I sand the other piece. It is easier sanding in this order
than sanding in reverse to that order. Then I do the same with 180
grit and the finish sander. Because finish sanders typically use
rectangular pieces of sand paper it is easier to control exactly what
you are sanding.
I have always looked at the round disk ROS sander as one to remove bulk
but with much more fineness than a belt sander. For the last grits I
almost always use a finish sander so that I can have more control with
direction. About the only time I will finish sand with a ROS is when
sanding large non-enclosed panels, cabinet sides or tops. ROS's can't
get into inside corners and are tough to hold flat on the edge surface
of a face frame, doors, drawers, anything narrow..
I'm thinking I could machine sand as carefully as possible up to the
line on the "bottom" piece of the "T", inevitably going over a little.
But on the "top" piece, I could hand-sand without going over the edge at
all for the last grit, especially if I were to make a custom sanding
block with a "stop".
Exactly what I was attempting to explain in the previous reply. BUT if
you have a small finish sander it is easily done with that instead of
using brute force. ;~)
Like this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14529789927/
But I have a feeling you guys don't do anything like that.
That is a little over kill. LOL BUT it should work. You don't quite
have to be that anal, sanding should be FUN! ;~)
If you fold the paper into the corner of the block it will also ease the
outside edge and sand the outer edge at the same time. BUT unless
executed perfectly it could round the outer edge more than you want.
Better to use two pieces, one for the outer edge surface short of the
corner and one for the surface short of the corner, come back and get
the corner.
Free hand sanding with a block of wood or finish sander should allow you
to get close enough with out going over on the pieces that butt. Once
yu get into the finer grits the stray scratches tend to be overshadowed
by that line at the joint where the two pieces meet.
One other thing, I buy foam backed 4x4 sheets of finish grit sand paper.
The makes for great hand sanding with out a block, the foam prevents
you fingers from slipping and is great for quickly easing over edges in
tight spots and corners. I typically use Mirka brand found at Woodcraft.
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