On 7/21/14, 7:53 PM, J Burns wrote:
On 7/21/14, 3:30 PM, Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 05:27:36 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Harry K wrote, on Fri, 18 Jul 2014 21:54:01 -0700:

The "steel" is a hone, not a sharpener.
Used regularly it will keep a sharp knive "scary sharp".
It works just find on serrated knives such as bread knives.

I'm surprised the steel will work on the serrated knives.

But, I watched a few videos today, and while it's easy to
get used to using the hone, the stones simply dulled my
knives even further.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5551/1...ac215781_b.jpg

So, I have a loooooong way to go to becoming a better knife
sharpener!

The hardest part is keeping a steady angle.

Best thing I have found is the small ceramic sharpeners. I have one
that's similar to this (mine has longer ceramic elements)

http://www.knivesforsale.us/SingleKn...Cat=Sharpeners


I also use mine on serrated knives and it works fine to sharpen them
too despite what some people claim.

That's how I got started with ceramics. It was hard to keep the little
rods from getting dull by accumulating metal. So I switched to the kind
with 8" rods stuck in a board.

I see Lansky now sells kits with a board, a pair of 5" medium rods, and
a pair of 5" fine rods, and holes for a 25 degree or a 20 degree edge. I
think the old kits were set for 40 degrees. If I wanted a more acute
edge, I'd put the blade in a clamp to guide a rod. (For some knives and
some uses, 40 degrees is more practical than 20.)

After looking at a photo, I believe Lansky means the angle of each side,
not the angle between the two sides. When they say 20 or 25 degrees,
they mean the sides meet at 40 or 50 degrees.