Thread: Bathtub caulk
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nestork nestork is offline
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Originally Posted by Guv Bob View Post
That's great info, nestork! I will give this a try here. I know from other types of cleaning, that one of the key points is to let the cleaner sit, then scrub a little, and let it sit some more.

You probably have a tip for this, too.... Shower stall is tile. I have used 1 cup bleach, 1 cup Spic-n-Span powder in a gallon of hot water. Sponge it on, let it sit and scrub it off. Last time I couldn't find Spic-n-Span anywhere, and used TSP instead. This works find if the mildew is not too bad.

One shower was badly stained where the floor meets the sides, and I have never been able to get it. To make it worse, someone (me) tried sealing it and covering up the stain with caulk before I knew any better. It's near impossible to scrape the caulk off.

Anyway, that's were I'm at now. Any ideas how to deal with this?

Bob
To remove silicone caulk, use a Dap product called "Silicone-Be-Gone" which you should find in the paint and caulking aisle of your local home center. This product is really nothing more than gelled mineral spirits, and mineral spirits will SOFTEN cured silicone caulk. Mineral spirits will not dissolve cured silicone caulk, only soften it so that it can be removed by mechanical means, such as scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad.

Often, people have trouble getting silicone caulk to stick to tub and tile after supposedly removing the old silicone caulk. The reason they're having a problem is that they haven't removed the old silicone caulk COMPLETELY. The way to tell if you've removed all of the old silicone is to wipe off the Silicone-Be-Gone with a damp sponge. Then sprinkle a fine powder like portland cement onto the area where the silicone caulk was and rub with your finger. The powder will become embedded in the soft silicone caulk, revealing the location of the remaining silicone caulk. Now, use the Silicone-Be-Gone on only the areas where there's remaining silicone caulk. Repeat this procedure until all of the portland cement powder wipes cleanly off tub and tile indicating there is no remaining silicone caulk. NOW, the new silicone caulk will stick well.

If you're having trouble removing mildew from old grout, the usual cause is that the bleach you're applying is not being drawn by capillary pressure INTO the grout, and the usual reason for this is that the porous surface of the grout is all clogged up with soap scum. Use a phosphoric acid based toilet bowl cleaner to dissolve that soap scum. Phosphoric acid toilet bowl cleaners will be gelled so that they're thicker. After applying the phosphoric acid, use a rubber squeegee to remove the toilet bowl cleaner to the grout lines and let it sit for a minute and then scrub the grout lines with an old denture brush or any stiff nylon bristle brush. That will remove the soap scum from the surface of the grout so that when the wet surface of the grout dries, it will wick bleach in by capillary pressure, and that's the key to cleaning grout with bleach.

If you're going to be cleaning mildew off silicone, it's important to have a STRONG and large spoon both for mixing the bleach and borax slurry and for scooping it out for spreading on the silicone with a teaspoon. Go to any place listed under "Restaurant Equipment & Supplies" in your yellow pages and buy a DESSERT SPOON for $2 or $3. The strongest spoon in any place setting will be the dessert spoon because it's meant for digging into hard ice cream and fudge. The tea spoon and soup spoon are weaker because they're meant for use with liquids; not for eating hard ice cream or fudge. You need a strong spoon like a dessert spoon to mash the borax against the side of the mixing container to make for a smooth and spreadable slurry.