On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 4:29:22 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Yeah, I might can see through in some areas. I'll re-evaluate everything this evening and post an update (late tomorrow?).


Some of the wood we filled with epoxy was cracked all the way through. In some cases, we simply put a tape over the crack on one side if it wasn't a really thick board. But on the thick wood used for tops (about 2 to 2 1/2 inches) we were using literally gallons. Lew can give you the right backer rod to fill the cracks as needed so you don't use so much epoxy material.. We used all kinds of materials, from soft cotton rope to closed cell foam rope used to back caulking.


Another concern, I thought of: The wood is still green, inside. The slab will take a few more years to air dry completely. I sent System3 an email, asking about applying epoxy to green wood.

Personally speaking (that means your mileage may vary) I wouldn't worry about gluing up that kind of rough wood. Fine furniture with precision cut moldings and joinery requires your material be completely stable. We epoxied the completely green tops with (again, get with Lew for the correct epoxy to use on damp surfaces)a product made by Bob Smith industries that makes epoxy for several different labels. The green wood moved of course, but the since their were no molding joints to separate or move, no drawers to bind or anything else, you didn't really see it. These were rough saw tops with one side smoothed, but open on both sides so the wood moved the same amount top and bottom. IF, IF, there was separation it was never at the epoxy joints as they were stronger than the wood so they didn't open up.

That's my experience.

Love to hear what you do. BTW, the reason I always used black on the cracks and wind shakes was that I could never match the color without it looking tacky. So keeping it black made it a "feature" and it looked much better.

Robert