"Sonny" wrote in message
Two issues of concern:
1) The table top is about 11' 9" long. One end is 31" wide and the
other end is 35" wide. As is, the table looks odd (though not so in the
pics), being too narrow looking. I think it needs to be wider and I do
have more boards, to widen the table top. Also, the leg units are 48"
wide, so the "feet" stick out well beyond the table top sides.... that
looks awkward, too. A wider table top would make things look much
better. Question: What might be an optimum width for this length of
table top, for it to look appropriately sized?
Width depends somewhat on function. Is it a dining table? Conference table?
Both vary considerably. Common dining table widths are 36, 40, 42 & 44, up
to about 48" which is about the max reach to center from either side.
Considering just appearance, the length/width ratio doesn't look bad to me
as is. In person, maybe it would. To my eye, a 1:4 ratio is attractive.
As Robert mentioned, the wider legs invite tripping. Widening the top would
mitigate that as would chairs or benches. If it were me, I'd also round
over the point at the outside corner...my wife tends to bump into stuff and
I'd rather she bruise herself on something round than pointy
2) One leg unit was checked from the start and is more noticeable in
these pics, i.e., after it has been planed and sanded with 80 grit, a
better view of the check. The leg unit is pretty darn stable, doesn't
flex along the check, but that might not last forever. The leg is 3.5"
thick. I think, but not sure yet, I can have it sawn along the check, at
a local pro wood shop, then glue it back together, with a long tenon
running the length of the cut face. I wonder how well I can clamp it,
though, having uneven edges for the clamp faces to press against. This
check is really unsightly and I would like to remove it, despite the unit
being stable, but I'm not sure if I can glue things back together and it
be as stable as it seems to be, now. Question: Would you cut the
check out? Any glue & clamp advice would be appreciated, also. I do
have adequate hefty bar clamps for this size stock.
If you do cut it, epoxy is the way to go for glue, no to minimal clamping
necessary. If you used yellow glue you have one good clamp point at the
apex of the down curve on each side; for other bar clamps you could use "C"
clamps or hand screws along the edges to help keep the bar clamps from
sliding.
If it were me, I'd do what Robert suggested...fill it with epoxy. Don't
think I'd use black, though, even though I like black. The check has been
there long enough that it has some decomposition; if I were filling, I'd use
a stiff bristle brush to remove what is easily removeable before filling.
If you fill and don't like it you can still cut.
Additional comments: In person, the table really looks rustic, as is.
Reminds me of something the vikings or midevil folks would sit around,
big and bulky raw furniture. I wasn't expecting it to have this look to
it and I like this appearance. I wonder if a finish coat will remove
this midevil-like look. If this look remains, I can see a long matching
bench seat, or two, to accompany it. I have the rootball stock for bench
legs.
I am torn. I understand about the raw look...it can be quite attractive,
particularly after it has aged a while. OTOH, I LOVE the color and grain of
finished walnut. Conclusion: no opinion
--
dadiOH
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