On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 3:21:44 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:

Not to worry, it will get filled. If I use lacquer I might use brushing Deft

to smooth up the surface, it builds fast and sands easy, then the color

coats. I'd be sure to check compatibility.

As a suggestion, use this instead:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-1...1008/100398390

Applying lacquer, whether sprayed, brushed or padded won't do much to fill pores. It is a top coat. That is why in a traditional french polish finish you must have several coats to cut through. Trust me on this; the lacquer and subsequent build coats will only reflect and transfer the texture underneath the coating.

The above mentioned primer will sit on top of the wood because it has so many solvents suspended in the spray solution. It won't hide the pores, but if you brush a couple on, depending on the wood you can go a long way to mitigating their appearance. After all, you don't want it to look like plastic, right?

You can prime with this and immediately go to paint after an hour or so.

If you go to lacquer, wait 48 to 72 hours to let the alcohol in the primer completely dissipate. Shellac uses modified alcohol as a solvent/carrier, and lacquer uses lacquer thinner which is a hot (high VOC) petroleum product.. The two are not miscible and will not bind unless the primer is cured. BIN says 45 minutes or something along those lines... don't believe it when you switch products and solvent bases.

One more thing... in an earlier post you were thinking of putting urethane on top of paint. Don't do it! The resins in the paint will set up when cured and if they are high quality paints, they will NOT adhere properly. They may not even go on well. And when the urethane dries, it may craze. Not a good idea. If you are bound to use poly, buy the black stuff. Paint is a top coat made to resist humidity, movement, abrasion, adhesion of foreign substances (coca cola, water, bird poop, food, dirt, etc.) and it will certainly resist the adhesion of another coating. I have literally seen poly peel off oil based paint in sheets.

Woodworking poly isn't like the stuff Mike Marlow shoots on his vehicles. He shoots a specialized SYSTEM of coatings that he can paint, top coat, and all other kinds of stuff that he does and still maintain compatibility. That is a completely different animal, much more sophisticated in its engineering and the components are made to be applied to strict standards.

Not so with most wood coatings unless specially designed to do so. I don't personally know of any different types of finish top coats that are guaranteed to be compatible.

Robert