On Saturday, November 9, 2013 7:24:40 AM UTC-5, Adrian C wrote:
On 08/11/2013 00:33, Trevor Wilson wrote:

On 8/11/2013 8:19 AM, wrote:

On Wednesday, November 6, 2013 6:58:37 PM UTC-5,

wrote:

My beloved Rotel RCD-855, purchased new around 1990, has 'died'. My

stereo is left powered on all the time and the power went out for

less than two seconds the other night. A while later I noticed the

all the display's segments were lit up.







I powered it off and back on with the same symptom. I powered it off

for a few minutes and when I powered it on again, the display was/is

completely dark though I can here some activity immediately after

powering on. Nothing works, not even the drawer.







Confused (by changing display symptoms) and bummed. It's not worth

having someone even look at it, I'm sure. But, it still sounded so

great, I want to try and fix it myself. No idea where to start.





I found the service manual in PDF form - so far, so good.



Yes, somewhere around 200k hours on time. I'd guess no less than 175k.



I do have soldering skills though the patience where's quickly at

times. Learned a long time ago to just walk away for a bit.



Funny thing, today they wife emailed me at work to tell me the power

went out again and that the CD player 'is on'. Come home to see that

display completely lit like when this first started. Regardless, time

to read through the manual before I pull it out of the rack and have

at it.





**Check out the connections where the display connects to the PCB. The

firt and last pins are the suspects.





Also check PSU capacitors for drying out. I have a Rotel tuner RT-930AX

of the same vintage that internally was always powered even though

switched off. The main reservoir cap was cooked. There are many power

rails in the item all related to each other including the VFD drive

voltage, if one rail is out, others will be erratic to cause malfunction.



--

Adrian C

coming back to my thread fairly late but, it's had to sit while other life events take priority.

Good news! The unit now works as it should. Turns out it was within the voltage selector switch. Some good spritzes of DeoxIT, a few sweeps back and forth, and a few more spritzes and it came back to life. Found this by accident while probing for voltages from start to end. Nudged the terminals just the right way to get the unit to start functioning (much to my surprise).

On to the next project - Adcom GFA-535 with no sound from the right channel but loads of DC voltage (46!).

Thanks for the info. It might not have 'fixed' it but, it was useful just the same.