Thread: wood dye
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jo4hn[_2_] jo4hn[_2_] is offline
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Default wood dye

On 6/24/2014 3:37 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I've never had occasion to use dye so don't know how strong a color one can
get.

I have need to get some work to a semi-gloss jet black. I had planned to
use black paint topped with poly - and if I can find some black, alkyd
enameI probably will - but I hate the idea of having to use acrylic...I
don't have spray equipment so will need something I can sand to get a nice
surface.

Would black dye get me a jet black? I don't mind wood texture showing but
not grain pattern. How about dye topped with poly that has some black tint
in it? Would light wood (eg, poplar) work better or a dark one (eg, walnut
or mahogany)? Maybe Peruvian walnut?

All opinions welcome but experience gets extra points

I have used dyes for many years. I settled on Transtint mainly because
they seem to have quality control from batch to batch. I generally
scrape or sand to the 120 to 150 range. I mix the dyes in shellac so as
to minimize the "grain raising". The key here is to use eyedroppers or
measuring spoons (the cooking kind), apply the result to some scrap
(cutoffs of your project piece), and add more of this dye or that to
home in on the color you want. Write everything down to get the final
formula. Important: Make enough in a batch to cover your entire
project because even with meticulous measuring/recording, no two batches
are ever quite the same.

Can you get a jet black? I doubt it since you are adding dyes to a
carrier (shellac or water) and hence diluting the color. For example,
my formula for a walnut color (always a popular choice) is a mix of dark
brown, black, and red. Unfortunately my modest collection of test
boards with compositions was discarded in our downsizing move.

I have also found that Klingspor has a good selection of finishing
goodies besides dyes (e.g. sandpaper, shellacs, sanders, etc.).

Anyway, you can wile away a lot of time coming up with your own
formulae. Have fun.
mahalo,
jo4hn