trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 17, 2014 9:29:36 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jun 2014 23:44:02 +0000, John Galt

wrote:



Hey,



So I've been using a simple adapter piece for my computer and phone etc..

and all have charged fine. I've used that piece for my american surround



I don't know what your simple adapter piece is. Details?



I would think "simple adapter" means that it converts the socket
so that you can plug the device in, but does nothing about the
voltage, freq, etc. That's fine for devices that use their own
walwart that is designed to work with 120/240, 50/60hz, etc. But
if you use one on an appliance like a stereo, that typically is not
designed that way, then POOF! Sounds like that's what happened here.
If he's lucky it might just be a fuse.




By phone, do you mean cell phone? Don't hold back these things or make

us beg for information to solve your problem.



How do you know the adapter piece made the computer and phone work?



Computers, desktop or laptop, have been designed to run both on 120 or

240 (or anywhere in between) for at least 10 years.

I wouldn't assume that all have, I'd check to be sure. AFAIK there is no
reqt for it and who knows for sure what every manufacturer is doing.
I'm not so sure about the in between part either. I've seen
desktop PCs that have a switch on the back for 120 or 240V. I would
think it might not like 160V on either, but IDK for sure. And if
the switch is set to 120V and he did what he just did with the surround,
I would think the result might not be good either.



So have cell

phone chargers. You could see this by looking at the label on each

device, where it say model, serial number, voltage, and amperage and has

some text too.



system (120v 60hz).



I don't know what an american surround sound is either. A dvid

player? But if it only runs on 120V, you're going to burn it out with

240. Does your adapter piece change 240 to 120?



It initially turned on, made a "whomp" noise, usually

like when I turn my amp on, however it didn't come back on. Have I blown

it? if I get a power converter, will it work again?



Before you buy something, I'd plug your sound into 120 and see if it

works.


And before he plugs anything in, he should look on the
back of it. A surround sound almost certainly has a label on the
back that says what voltage/freq it will accept. And if not, the
documentation is available online.

Hi,
Sorry to say this, is OP dumb or stupid or drunk or what?