Remember your physics? Energy is equal to the mass times the square of the
velocity, so doubling your speed is four times the energy to split between
moving and unmoving object. Also, a sharp tool will cut wood as well at a
lower speed as a higher, and will heat less. That's why I keep my lathe on
the lowest speed for 90% of what I do. Won't bother my cuts, and mistakes
are less likely to break things. Your slowest and mine are both about 500,
so you can do capacity bowls down to pieces the size of pens, if my
experience is worth anything. If you're turning for a living, might want
to go higher on smaller, balanced work, but you have to be a bit more
consistent on the tool. Hollowing with tiny scraping tools works better
with faster speeds, but I never go above the 1100.

Your Ridgid was a Reeves drive outfit? They're noisier than straight
belts.

"Walker" wrote in message
.. .
Well, I finished my little bench for my new Jet Mini last night and bolted
it down. Seems like a perfect height....spindle is about elbow's height.
After finishing the bench and getting it bolted down, I just couldn't help
my self, I had to try it out. When I plugged it in and turned it on, I
could
not believe how quiet this little lathe is. You can barely hear it
running.
Kinda sounds like a sewing machine. The Ridgid I was still in my shop and
I
turned it on for comparison and couldn't believe the difference in sound
and
smoothness of the turning. They are night and day! I had a couple 4"
diameter pieces of oak, about 12 inches long and within a very short time
turned myself a new mallet. This little lathe is great. I can't wait to
get
home from work and turn something else!

My only complaint would be that the instruction manual is a little
lacking.
Not much information in there for a novice. Can someone give me some
basic
guidelines on turning speeds (rouging and finishing) that I should use for
the differing sizes of between-centers pieces and faceplate pieces?

Walker