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Jon Anderson[_3_] Jon Anderson[_3_] is offline
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Default OT computer question...

Accidentally replied direct to Jon Elson, for anyone with possible
input, this was my response to him:

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I'd thought maybe there was voltage, but not enough current to damage
anything. And I'd checked power with all but one drive plugged in, so
the PS was loaded.

Meter is a Fluke 8020 B, not some cheap auto-range. I'm no electronics
guru, but reasonably confident I know how to measure DC voltages. But to
prove I did it right, I went and checked the output of a wall wart.
Dang, a 13 volt supply was measuring over 200 volts! Then tried a 9 volt
battery, and it's showing 57 volts.

I was severely weight restricted in my move, just my checked luggage
cost $500 for extra bags and overweight. So I shipped some basic tools
via USPS. Looks like my Fluke didn't survive the trip despite being well
padded. I'll go buy an inexpensive meter and see what it says about the
power supply...

Is a Fluke 8020 worth having fixed? If so, anyone know of an outfit in
AU that can (hopefully) fix it?
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Jon replied suggesting possible condensation in the meter. I removed the
top and placed it in front of the heater. Tested the 9v battery after
about 20 minutes, it read 50+ volts, but then, began dropping, finally
settling at around 20 volts. After an hour, it read 20-some volts and
settled down to 9.9. So condensation appears to be at least part of the
problem.

Our house was built in probably the 30's, and who knows when the
additional rooms were added, but by US standards if insulation, the
additions are barely better than a bare stud wall in a garage. And it's
friggin cold here right now! I'd brought the meter in from the cold room
into the main living room, which was warm. Soon as the meter starts
reading a battery like I'd expect, I'll test the PS again.

I'd bought the 8020B maybe 10 years ago, well used. Thinking I ought to
maybe get a newer one. On eBay, I found many Fluke meters, looking at a
model 115, 233/A, and an 8060A. Want to stay right around $100, which
means used most likely. Any input on these models for someone that does
fairly basic electronics/electrical work? Or suggestions on other models?

Thanks,

Jon