Greg,

I don't think you are going to find too many segmented woodturners that
completely agree on the causes and cure for glue creep. I have never had a
problem with glue creep. Why? I don't know, but I do a number of things that I
think minimize the opportunity for creep to occur. Here's my thoughts on the
subject.

Most segmented woodturners will tell you that if you have a bowl that has a
creep problem, once the bowl is sanded and refinished then the creep doesn't
come back. So it stands to reason that if you let the bowl sit for a little
longer before its turned and finished then maybe creep won't happen in the first
place. That's what I do.

Most segmented woodturners don't have a creep problem and most use Titebond II
wood glue. I do too. Franklin, the manufacturer of Titebond, doesn't say
anything about the creep properties of Titebond or Titebond II glue, although it
specifies that its hide glue has very little creep. I don't think I'm going to
change glue just for an experiment.

The tighter glue joints, the less glue you have for creep to happen. That just
makes sense. Most experienced segmented woodturners don't have creep problems
and I would assume they have tight glue joints.

Maybe using wood with low moisture content makes a difference. There's no
telling what your wood moisture content is unless you check it. Personally, I
just let the wood dry out in my basement for a year or so.

Maybe the finish affects glue creep. Personally, I use sanding sealer and
lacquer which dries almost instantly. It could be that a slow drying finish
penetrates the glue and cause creep.

My thoughts are just food for thought. Like I said, I have no idea what causes
creep, just guesses.

Kevin Neelley
http:\\www.turnedwood.com


In article , Greg Kulibert says...

Abe's question is something that puzzled me also.
I remember reading articles about biscuit jointing where the glue from the
biscuit swelled the wood and then it was quickly sanded. When the water from
the glue left the wood shrank back down and was then uneven in the glued
area.

So that gives us three options
Glue creep
wood movement due to moisture changes with time - seasonal movement- in
particular different movements with different kinds of wood
wood movement due to drying out after and excessive mositure change due to
glue.

If it's due to swelling due to glue and then shrinkage this should only
happen once and then could be avoided by allowing the glue joints to dry
for a few weeks before final turning or sanding.
Any other opinions/solutions/data??

Greg in Oshkosh

"Abe" wrote in message
.net...
In article , says...

But will such testing tell you:

* Ability to hold up to whatever contents the form will have? For
example, if you make salad bowls, will they stand up to oil and
vinegar?

* Will the glue line "creep" with time? Titebond often, over time,
leaves a ridge at the seam that you can feel with your fingers.

What causes this -- movement of the glue itself or movement of the wood
around the joint (caused by seasonal humidity fluctuation or whatever)?

Abe