Sounds like you're talking spindle. I was speaking of bowl. I like to cut
across and down rather than try to fight with the alternating end and long
grain. Lot less likely to catch, gouge, or otherwise rip a bit of punky
wood out of a spalted piece that way.

Your technique is bit different than I teach for spindles. I like the gouge
rolled up near its edge (near your 90 degrees), center of gouge slightly
above center of piece, toolrest well below center. I nose the gouge down
and toward the center of the cove until I catch the shaving, roll to center
of same, repeat in opposite roll from other side. For bead, same technique,
but more down than roll. Truth, I like my beading tool, or a Bedan, or a
1/4 parting tool over a gouge for that. Easier to maintain the shaving a
consistent thickness.

Self taught isn't like the old saw about representing yourself in court.
You don't have a fool for a teacher. You might have a fool for a pupil if
you don't ask about when you have a recurring problem, though.

"Phil Anselm" wrote in message
...
George,
Sorry, but I'm unable to picture the techniques in my mind when you
discuss
how the gouge is used.
I've been sort of "lurking" in this group a while. I'm self-taught; I've
read a bunch of books on
turning, but never been mentored or even seen a video. I'm trying as best
I
can to learn good
practices. My approach with the gouge depends on whether I'm making a
cove
or a bead.
For a cove, I usually rest the the gouge on the piece, flat, not cutting,
and slowly back the gouge
until it just begins to shave, then roll the gouge into the bead, cutting
with the side cutting edge
of the gouge. For a steep cove, I rotate the gouge 90 degrees before
cutting, so the gouge
is resting on its edge. The gouge is then lowered delicately into the
cove,
rotating as it goes,
again cutting with the off-center cutting edge of the gouge. If you could
clarify your techniques,
I'd very much appreciate it, so I could experiment. Many thanks. -- Phil