pentapus wrote:
On 4/13/2014 8:48 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 4/12/2014 9:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would
say,
"doesn't owe me anything."
Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger
and buy a new motor.
You solve your problem SAFELY.
Lew
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"Keith Nuttle" wrote:
Even though it is a 40 year old motor it has been maintained. It
is not cost effective to replace the over $200 motor because the
$30 switch failed. Do I see over 10 trillion dollars in 5 years
----------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?
Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.
http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
Lew
"How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?"
__________________________________________________ ____
The saw was purchased about 1970. I inherited the saw about 1987. My
father-in-law had been sick for a long time so the saw got used
very little.
At some time in the late 90's the motor died. I took it down to the
local small motor repair shop, for a diagnosis of whether I needed a
new motor. He looked at it ask a couple of question, and reached
for a screw drive. He proceeded to disassemble the motor and found
a splinter of wood in a contact in the motor start circuit. He
took out the armature and cleaned the old saw dust out of the motor.
With each step he showed me exactly what he was doing. He
recommended doing that every 3 to 5 years depending on the usage,
and to vacuum the vents on the motor with every use.
I have followed his recommendation ever since and the motor is still
in good conditions.
So much to be said for almost anything made 40 years ago in the US.
You could take them apart and fix them. The trend is toward lowest
cost and minimum amount of materials. Not so fixable. I tried to fix
a motor start on a Sears washing machine not long ago. Not only was
that not possible but the part was over $60 (not retail), on a used
washer worth $80 used, not a good plan.
As I said in the previous post, after not finding what I wanted for a
replacement, I took the switch apart and rebuilt it. I will order a
new switch on line. That is what I did for my ShopVac after that
switch failed.
Seems like the right plan. I thought the switch was no longer
available.
Sears parts departments used to be quite good, and relatively cheap. I
believe much of that has gone by the wayside.
I would recommend a paddle switch as long as a replacement is in order.
Grizzly has the best prices I've found on them. The paddle makes for a very
convenient way to shut off the saw - I have mine mounted so I can kick it
off with my knee. So much better than reaching for a switch after a cut.
--
-Mike-