On Monday, March 10, 2014 3:05:38 PM UTC-4, bud-- wrote:
On 3/9/2014 3:48 PM, David L. Martel wrote:

Derby,



Your unit draws more than 12 amps, so it needs 20amp wiring, fusing.

That's what needs to go to the switchbox from the main panel.



That is actually if the load is "continuous", which is over 3 hours. It

may be on that long. DD says the manufacturer wants a 20A circuit.



If you load a breaker over 80% and the load is on for over 3 hours the

breaker may trip. That is the only reason I know of for the 80% rule.



The heater draws just under 12 amps. So the wiring to and switch for the

heater should be for 20 amps.



The wiring has to be #12 because the circuit is #12.



The switch can be 15A. I would likely use a spec grade (better quality).



Neither of the switches that you are looking

at can handle 20 amps. Any hardware store will have 20 amp switches in many

styles and colors.

Your fan draws 1/4 of an amp. It will happily work with the humidity

sensor switch. 12-2 is overkill for the fan but you've already got it so use

it.



You need #12 because the circuit is #12.



I agree the humidity switch should be fine.



Dewstop - if the total load is 15A or less and Dewstop is rated 15A you

could use it. But it is expensive. Is it UL listed?



I don't see why the dewstop has to be rated at 15A. The fan draws less
that an amp. It's controlled by that electronic dewstop gizmo. That
would seem to me to be just like putting a ceiling fan controller or
a light dimmer that rated at 700W on any light circuit, be it 15A,
20A, etc. The light dimmer can't handle 15A, yet it's apparently
code compliant, no?