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Luke C Feur Luke C Feur is offline
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Default Can washing machine start capacitor test good - and still be bad?

On Monday, March 3, 2014 4:28:49 PM UTC-5, Home Guy wrote:
About a year ago the motor in my kenmore washing machine was acting up -

buzzing but not turning. I suspected the start capacitor and picked up

a used one for $10 at a local repair shop. These are black, about the

size of a D-cell battery.



The original was 270 - 324 mfd, 110 vac. Model 3348058.



The one I got as a replacement was 189 - 227 mfd, 357021.



Even though I had a capacitance meter at work, I just went out and

picked up the used cap, installed it and bingo - the washing machine

works. That was a year ago.



So more recently, over the past week or two, the motor was acting up

again. It would buzz, I'd bump the machine, and it would start. But

yesterday even bumping / rocking the machine didn't work.



So I took the capacitor out and measured the original and this

replacement. The original measured 298 mdf (micro-farad) and the

replacement was 211. Both numbers pretty much exactly what they should

be according to their labels.



So maybe the problem wasn't / isin't the capacitor - but a centrifugal

contact in the motor? Do these motors have such contacts (start

winding) ?



Or can hand-held digital capacitance meters perform correct measurements

on these big caps?



I'm cross-posting this to alt.hvac, because my question about this

washing machine motor capacitor and how well or accurately a capacitance

meter can measure them if they're bad might also apply to compressor or

fan motors.



As far as I can tell, there is just this one capacitor connected to this

motor, so I don't think there are separate start and run capacitors.


My American Standard had capacitor problems. The manufacturer reccommended a kickstart to retain enough jolt.