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Home Guy[_3_] Home Guy[_3_] is offline
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Default Can washing machine start capacitor test good - and still be bad?

About a year ago the motor in my kenmore washing machine was acting up -
buzzing but not turning. I suspected the start capacitor and picked up
a used one for $10 at a local repair shop. These are black, about the
size of a D-cell battery.

The original was 270 - 324 mfd, 110 vac. Model 3348058.

The one I got as a replacement was 189 - 227 mfd, 357021.

Even though I had a capacitance meter at work, I just went out and
picked up the used cap, installed it and bingo - the washing machine
works. That was a year ago.

So more recently, over the past week or two, the motor was acting up
again. It would buzz, I'd bump the machine, and it would start. But
yesterday even bumping / rocking the machine didn't work.

So I took the capacitor out and measured the original and this
replacement. The original measured 298 mdf (micro-farad) and the
replacement was 211. Both numbers pretty much exactly what they should
be according to their labels.

So maybe the problem wasn't / isin't the capacitor - but a centrifugal
contact in the motor? Do these motors have such contacts (start
winding) ?

Or can hand-held digital capacitance meters perform correct measurements
on these big caps?

I'm cross-posting this to alt.hvac, because my question about this
washing machine motor capacitor and how well or accurately a capacitance
meter can measure them if they're bad might also apply to compressor or
fan motors.

As far as I can tell, there is just this one capacitor connected to this
motor, so I don't think there are separate start and run capacitors.