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Art Todesco Art Todesco is offline
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Default Is a UL listing mandatory for specialized electrical equipment?

On 2/28/2014 5:59 AM, Robert Green wrote:
"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
On 2/26/2014 6:21 AM, Robert Green wrote:


stuff snipped

Looks like you're going to use one the Jeff Volp XTB repeaters, right?


Yes, I actually have a few because I was one of his beta testers from the
very get-go and ended up with every piece of equipment he ever designed.

I've been looking to get one for some time. I'm using the regular X10

repeater
(XPCR) now and, in this location, it seems to work ok ... although it has

had some
issues.


I have that unit - a lot cheaper than the XTB-II but you really get what you
pay for. The problem with the XPCR is that it doesn't substantially boost
the signal. The XTB-II can detect very weak X-10 signals smaller than 100mv
and boosts them to around 25 volts. That's why very little on the market
compares, performance-wise.

Jeff's also worked very hard on perfecting the firmware which means
accounting for the many devices that *almost* follow the X-10 protocol.
IIRC, the biggest issue is that some device makers put the X-10 signal out
at the wrong place on AC cycle - slightly before or after the location
specified by the protocol and that has some pretty serious repercussions in
trying to design a repeater. Creating something like an X-10 repeater that
has to deal with devices from dozens of different manufacturers (some of
them extinct!) is quite a challenge.

AT Christmas, when I use many modules, I had, just for one evening, a
situation where my 1132CU was picking up constant 'noise' and blinking its

light. I
suspect that the XPCR was sending out some random stuff, but really don't

know.

I had a Leviton repeater that would go into a "babel" mode when you hit it
with just the right command (dimming, IIRC - that's hard for a repeater to
handle because of the open-ended nature of such commands). The unit would
start sending out fragments of legit X-10 commands (one reason a meter is
now a necessity) in an endless cascade. That meant *nothing* in the house
worked because the powerline was taken over by a strong, thoroughly
corrupted string of signals.

I am ashamed to say that first unit (the Leviton) was installed in the
panel, temporarily, with jumper cables. EEEK! (-: It didn't stay there
long because of all the trouble it caused. I was about to trash my X-10
setup. I posted a note in CHA about the repeater problems and Jeff
contacted me about testing his new repeater. The rest, as they say, is
history.

I saw
this in my more suburban house a few years ago and in fact, couldn't use

the XPCR
at all. It generated so much noise, it would block or generate its own

X10 signals.

I also had a bad CM11A that would start spewing commands endlessly when it
overheated. They apparently had made a big batch of bad units. The CM11A
was also known to "speak in tongues" if you made a mistake and left the
RS-232 programming cable attached to the CM11A but not the PC.
Here in a more rural setting, it seems to work ok.


The XPCR is OK as a repeater/coupler in simple setups but it lacks it the
incredible power of the XTB-II. It's also missing some very nice features
like a digital input port so you can plug devices like HomeVision or Ocelot
controllers directly into the repeater without needing an intermediate
device like a TW523.

In my house, with the plethora of plug in equipment like switched power
supplies and UPSs (a known X-10 killer) there's just no operating X-10
without the XTB. A while back when I was working on the circuit panel I
disabled the XTB and it became immediately apparent how much the successful
functioning of X-10 now depends on having a powerful coupler/repeater.

The XTB unit is not UL approved, unfortunately ... especially, if you opt

to
save a few $$$ and buy it in kit form.


I only bought the assembled versions because I've never seen anyone solder
as cleanly or professionally as Jeff. I also think it's important to
support small businesses like his. Very few people are making things in the
USA anymore. There's also the small matter of my absymal soldering skills.

We had extensive discussions about getting a UL listing and it's just not
justifiable at his sales volume. Install a 240VAC outlet near the circuit
box (you can use an existing dryer hookup but the closer to the panel, the
stronger the signal). Then you don't have to worry too much about the
inspector.

If you install the XTB-II in a separate metal box it's not very likely that
even a catastrophic failure would do more than melt the components. The
unit is internally fused and installed on a dual breaker that trips both
phase connections if either one causes a trip. Not sure what the right word
for such physically linked breakers is . . . (senior moment)

But, the reviews seem to say it's the best unit out there for x10

repeating.

I agree wholeheartedly and I have tried most of them. I have
repeater/couplers from X-10, ACT, Leviton and more. They are junior
leaguers compared to the XTB line. His XTBM line of meters is also
unmatched for the price. The higher priced one has a built in repeater
check function that tests the repeater function every time the meter is
plugged in. Jeff's one of the most detail-oriented people I know. If for
any reason you had a problem with one of his units, I am sure he would work
very hard to resolve it. I can't recommend his stuff highly enough. Just
look at the pictures of assembled products and you'll see the attention to
detail I am talking about.

http://www.google.com/search?q=xtb+p...&tbm=isch&sa=X

BTW, I know it's wrong, but I have my present XPCR hidden inside the

breaker
box, so it's not easy to see the LEDs on it, but keeps it from being

easily seen.

And you're worried about the XTB's NOT being UL listed?!!! You bad dog,
Art!!!! (-:

--
Bobby G.


No, I'm not worried about the UL thing. I've seen many UL devices burst
into
flames. And, I have some home made stuff which is certainly not UL ...
maybe
the individual part are, but not the whole thing. My plan for the XTB
would be to
install it in a box next to the panel.