On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:29:40 -0800, wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 06:05:18 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:22:02 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
With 91 gallons of hot water sitting in a well insulated tank, he
won't need to heat water for quite some time during a power outage.

Oops, except that there won't be any pressure to use it...

I can live with kettles of water heated on the stove. It can be poured
into the washing machine or the dishpan, or the modified garden
sprayer I described earlier to take a hot shower. When I was a soldier
and active outdoorsman I learned to brush my teeth, shave and wash up
with warm water in a Sierra or canteen cup.

Right, but you still need water pressure to supply water. I'm working
on finding a split well cap which will let me to sink a manual pump
next to the downpipe of the submersible, allowing me to pump water
during a long-term power outage. If your big-city power generators at
the Water Works are stolen or destroyed by the angry crowd (who are
****ed at the power outage; logic has no place during a riot) you'd
still be SOL.
For my well I got tired of spiders or whatever falling in the water
and testing positive for e. coli. So I removed the typical cast
aluminum cap and added a couple tapped holes, one for chlorine and one
for a sintered bronze vent. I replaced the cap, sealed it to the

I'm scratching my head over what a vent provides in a well. To allow
the level of the water to rise and fall, perhaps? My vent is plugged
with a 1/2" pipe cap, as are others I've seen. shrug


casing and sealed the wires going into the cap and since have had no
more bacteria problems. Surely you could remove your cap, bore it,
and then weld a pipe fitting of some sort to it.

No, I can't. The existing pipe hole is centered. I need a couple
off-centered holes, plus one for the wiring.

I have a split type like this: http://tinyurl.com/ks6d7bn
There isn't room for an additional 1"+ pipe. The guys at the
irrigation supply asked if I had a liner. I don't know yet because it
means I'll have to:
1- Shut the power and water off and remove the union.
2- Loosen the seal and get a jack to lift the existing seal out along
with the submersible pump, pipe, wiring, and safety rope.
3- Remove the top fittings and replace the seal with the new one, once
I've measured all the goodies and found a new one, which may be a real
problem...

I'm waiting for a nice spring day to try this, but it's high on my
list of things to do.

I'm sure these are easily had at the well supply place, but they'll
certainly want $400 for a $30 cap/seal. sigh Effem!

Here's a sample pump the style I'm building.
http://tinyurl.com/lzmwya4

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams