Thread
:
Adding UPS to light circuit
View Single Post
#
76
Posted to alt.home.repair
[email protected]
[_2_]
external usenet poster
Posts: 6,399
Adding UPS to light circuit
On Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:55:05 PM UTC-5, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/13/2014 6:44 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 17:32:02 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 2/13/2014 4:03 PM,
wrote:
On Thu, 13 Feb 2014 15:03:17 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 2/13/2014 1:25 PM,
wrote:
On Thursday, February 13, 2014 10:55:12 AM UTC-5, The Daring
Dufas wrote:
On 2/11/2014 9:43 PM, JIMMIE wrote:
My house lighting is all LED total wattage with all on
is less than 100 watts. What I want to do is to be able
to connect my light circuits to the UPS during
emergencies like this ice storm that is coming up. Not
worried about heat or the fridge, I have gas heater
backup and not enough in the fridge to worry about. Are
there approved ways of connecting in the UPS that does
not involve adding a transfer switch. I was thinking
about doing this with outlets and plugs so I could unplug
the light circuit and plug it into the UPS.
Jimmie
The easiest thing to do is to run a low voltage lighting
system using a 12vdc power system and battery charger. A
relay to switch on the 12 volt LED lights when the power
fails is simple to implement and with a proper low current
fuse is quite safe. I bought a little 48 LED light panel
meant to replace an automobile dome light from Amazon to
play with and it and it puts out a surprising amount of
light. The LED panel measures 1-1/2" X 2-5/8" and has
double stick foam on the back so it can be mounted easily.
I imagine you can make your own panel using 4 to 6of them
and light up a room very well. I haven't measured the
current draw on it but I found it is quite bright off a 9
volt battery. Low voltage wire such as telephone wire
installed with a stapler could be used to wire rooms for
emergency light using the little modules. ^_^
I think you'll find that telephone wire is probably not
rated for use in a low voltage lighting system in a house.
There is NEC that applies to those types of installations
too.
Jesus H Christopher! It's a DIY project not wiring the
Smithsonian! Telephone system cable caries 48vdc talk battery
and 90vac ringing voltage. It's not high current and neither is
the power required by the 12vdc LED modules. The OP could use
thermostat wire which is rated for up to 300 volts. He can
install his low voltage lighting, measure the current draw then
install a proper fuse to protect the wiring which will prevent
the magic smoke from escaping. o_O
TDD
IF he wires it correctly he can use bell wire. But what he can
NOT do is wire 100 watts of LED on a single run of bell wire
because that requires almost 10 amps of current - on a wire that
is only rated for 2.3 amps for power transmission.
Forgive me for not remembering that others will not take into
consideration those things I do without thinking. Those little
panels with 48 SMD LED's draw very little current and like any
other electrical project I've ever done, I will figure in the
current draw of the project before I install anything. I haven't
measured the current draw of the little SMD LED light panels but
I'm sure it's not much at all.
TDD
One that I installed in my brother's RV was 3 watts. That's getting
awfully close to the limit on the bell wire. ANd PHONE wire is
generally 22 guage, not 18 - so NO. You cannot use bell wire to wire
a house for low voltage lighting...
Then use landscape lighting wire or 18-16AMW stranded low voltage alarm
or sound system cable.
Again, he can do whatever he pleases, but landscape lighting wire
is most likely not rated for use inside a building. What you
proposed he wire up is a Class 1 low voltage circuit and it's
covered under NEC.
An alternative is what I do when installing CCTV
cameras. I install a central 12vdc power supply and separate low voltage
cables to each camera. A multi terminal central power supply used for
CCTV cameras would be a good choice. It's not rocket surgery. GEEZ!
TDD
It's not rocket surgery, but that doesn't mean that there aren't
codes that are supposed to be followed. Why do it half-assed
instead of reading the code, using the right materials, and doing
it right? As an example to the practical problems you're left
with, if someday he goes to sell the house, an inspector seeing
phone wire used for low voltage lighting may flag it. Then he
has a problem that he could have easily avoided by doing it right.
Reply With Quote
[email protected]
[_2_]
View Public Profile
Find all posts by
[email protected]
[_2_]