In article ,
Frisket wrote:
Be warned, it's the spawn of Satan. Stripping it back and potting a new
gland is not for the faint hearted or uninitiated. A single "fanny hair"
(technical term) of outer caught in the compound is enough to cause a
major fault and as for damp... Hate to suggest it on a DIY group but you
may be better off using an old pro sparky.

It's easy enough to use for a careful amateur used to plumbing - in some
ways he might be more careful than a pro in the usual rush.

As regards scrap parts of the outer causing shorts this shouldn't happen
if you use the correct tool for stripping back as it pares it off rather
like paring an apple. If you haven't got the correct tool, an ordinary
small copper tube cutter may be used and the outer stripped off to this
point using cutters - this is rather easier in the larger sizes. With
smaller sizes, examine the end carefully using a magnifying glass if
necessary to make sure a lip hasn't formed that might touch the
conductors. If this has happened it can be removed with a small scraper,
but make sure any swarf is blown away afterwards.

If there's damp in existing cable, I'd say it's scrap as either the seals
have failed or it's been penetrated somewhere. New cable shouldn't be damp
if it's been correctly stored, and if unsure cutting a couple of feet off
the end should do it. Damp insulant is in chunks, while dry is a powder,
so once getting back to powder add about a foot for safety.

The compound should be kept clean and in one of those re-seal able bags -
not left loose in the bottom of the tool box.

If you haven't got the correct tool for screwing on the seal, it can be
done carefully with slip joint pliers making sure it's kept square, or you
can make up a tool using the gland screwed into a conduit coupler with a
bush and spacer at the other end to grip the seal up to the gland - this
will keep it square as you screw it on.

Two sets of slip joint pliers can be used to force the seal cover onto the
seal and squeeze out excess compound. They can also be used to crimp over
the end to hold the cover in place.

Give the conductors a good pull in line with the cable to straighten them
before adding the cover, and afterwards.

It's super stuff to work with and looks great if you take your time, so
very satisfying for a careful amateur, but not for a pro in a hurry, which
is why it's fallen out of use. You'll have difficulty sourcing all the
bits from a normal wholesaler, and they may not even be willing to order
it in in small quantities.

I recently used it in a small conservatory, as IMHO no exposed wiring
looks as good, or is as small and neat.

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn