Leon wrote:
On 2/4/2014 1:33 AM, Bill wrote:
Was listening to an Jim Heavey (WW-Shows) say that he "knocked down"
all corners/edges with a router--because finishes don't adhere to
them very well. He also routes around inset cabinet doors (frames?)
to help allow for wood movement while preserving the appearence. Are
both of these approaches SOP? Thank you for further
clarification! I'm sorry if this is on topic! ; )

Bill


Yes Bill finishes tend to not adhere to a sharp edge. The finish will
pull away from a sharp edge while applying. Using a router could be
very time consuming, don't get into corners well, and very well may
change the look of the project.

I use my finish sander to very lightly go over the edge a pass or two
to ease the edge and often use a piece of foam backed 4.5"x 4.5" sand
paper and break the edge manually. Softening the edge so that it is
not likely to cut you if you run your finger against it is typically
enough.

To chime in on Leon here - a basic fact is that any finish always wants some
amount of tooth. Of course, the more liquid the finish, the less tooth you
need to provide, but the principle remains. Hard edges provide little to no
tooth, so they are more likely to fail in their ability to absorb a finish.
Not to mention that on hard edges (in particular outside edges), the finish
is at its thinest. A fraction of what it may be on a more flat surface of
the piece. So - Leon's comment is spot on for a couple of reasons. He
opens the pores by sanding and creates tooth. He also relieves - even if
ever so slightly, that hard edge and enables a higher build of the finish.


Unless you are really wanting to change the profile of the edge vs.
making the sharp corner/edge not so sharp, a router is going to take
you 4 times longer.

Agreed. That's where a good set of torches can't be beat...!

--

-Mike-