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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default End Of Run Switch To New Outlet

Harry K wrote:
On Monday, January 27, 2014 12:15:46 AM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Harry K wrote:
On Sunday, January 26, 2014 5:18:24 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
James wrote:


On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:52:17 -0600, James wrote
Um this was a switch loop and I failed to recognize it for what it was :
Anyhow I replaced the 2-conductor wiring from the light to the switch with
3-conductor so I would have a neutral in the switch box from the power
source. From there of course it was easy to get a working outlet. Sheesh.


Thanks to all who pointed out what I had would not work.


So now you have a switch box stuffed with too many wires, right?


How so? He _replaced_ the 2wire with 3-wire A normal full-depth single
gang box is more than roomy enough for a switch/receptacle and 3 wires
plus ground. Even had he puit the outlet in a separate box a single gang
box with switch only still has enough room for 6 conductors plus ground.
Harry K


Unless I'm mistaken he now has:


3 wires from the light, 2 wires to the receptacle, all grounds count as 1,
the switch counts as 2.


3 wires to the receptacle if remote.

3+2+1+2 = 8
_If_ the box is at least 3 x 2 x 3.5, and the wire is 14 g, then he is OK.
It depends on the box installed by the electrician when the switch was
added and the size of the used by the OP.


He only has 6 conductors, 7 counting ground, if the receptacle is remote.
You are counting pigtails which are not included in conductor count.

If he installed a combination receptacle/switch he only has 3 conductors and a ground.


Harry K


Let's assume for the time being that the receptacle is remote

You saw how I got my number via the breakdown of wires, switches, etc.

I'll now ask you to break your number of "6" and "7".