Snag wrote:
RobertMacy wrote:
On Fri, 27 Dec 2013 08:26:43 -0700, Snag wrote:

...snip...
This stove has gaskets on both the fire box door and on the door
to access
the ash pan . It seals up very well , I don't expect any smoke
problems from
adding a flue damper too .

seems the best way to control the heat is through the air supply, up
through the ash box.


Well , that is the design intent , but it ain't workin' like I would
think - as in close the inlet and it gets cooler . Seems that when I
turn it "down" it gets hotter . I think that this might be because
it's holding the heat in the stove instead of letting it out the flue
pipe , but shouldn't restricting air flow also cool the fire somewhat
? This thing is oversize for our current heated area and I knew that
when I bought it great deal , 200 bucks including everything needed
to hook it up but I expected to be able to regulate the output much
better . I hate opening a window to cool things off , that's just
throwing heat away and I don't like cutting and splitting wood just
to toss the heat out the window .

My certified insert is at it's hottest once it gets hot enough to really get the
secondary burn going and shut the air down to the minimum. Then it contains the
heat gets even hotter, and really burns effectively even with the minimum air
and no smoke. The entire firebox will be filled with slow moving flame. That's
the way it's designed to work, I'm sure.

Too big of a stove can make running it cleanly difficult.