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J. Clarke
 
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Default Replacing gunnel on my canoe (slightly OT)

J T wrote:

Sat, Jul 17, 2004, 11:01pm lid (J.*Clarke) says a
lot:
snipped

Well, I've certainly got no response to any of that. You
obviously are an expert, know everything there is to know about it all,
and apparently everything I know, or learned, or heard, or thought, is
wrong.


If you mean by "know everything about it all" that "Titebond II is not the
right glue to use to fix a busted boat" then, yeah, by that standard I know
everything about it all.

But, seeing as you called me on my spelling, you spelled "who",
when it probably should have been "how".


Sorry, but "cola bunkers" struck me as sufficiently humerous to be worthy of
note.

And, it was not exterior
plywood.


Now let's see, you're talking about an outdoor sign that was not made on
exterior plywood? I'm sorry, but why would someone use anything but
exterior plywood for an outdoor sign?

It was entertaining for awhile, and enlightening.

What would you advise using, to make a wooden boat, in the 15-18
foot range:
Wood, adhesives, fasteners, protective coating, etc.?


I would advise first finding the local watermen in your area (the people who
_work_ on the water) and finding out what they use. There may be local
considerations that make one type preferable to another. If you're not in
an area where there are such, then see if there are any "traditional"
designs that have historically been popular in your area. Then obtain a
set of plans for a boat appropriate to the use intended and follow the
recommendations of the designer.

Boat design is a specialized art. Far more to consider than you might
imagine if it is to be stable and give good performance. Take a look
through a text on Naval Architecture if you don't believe me. And don't
assume that because it's a "little boat" those considerations don't apply.
There's also the matter of local conditions--see what's popular among the
working watermen of your area and that's probably the way to go. I'm not a
naval architect and don't pretend to be.

Oh, yes, it would live on a trailer, except when in the water,
would not be overnight in the water, be covered when not in use, and be
checked weekly for water insited the boat, whether used or not.


Again, go with what the designer recommends. From your description below
whatever you pick will probably have a transom plug, pull it when it's on
the trailer and water should not be an issue as long as nothing is blocking
the plug. Just make sure you put it back before you launch. For a trailer
boat ply, either sheet or cold-molded, is probably the best bet unless you
want to tool up to do traditional dory construction--it's going to be going
through alternate wet and dry cycles and you want something that doesn't
move much and so doesn't work itself apart. If you manage to knock a hole
in it though the repair is not going to be as simple as replacing a board.

Would
be used on lakes, probably rivers, and need to be able to be run up on
banks, landings, possibly run up (accidently) on a submerged stump or
rock - not faster than a slow trolling speed - without being holed
(minor leakage from such a collision would be acceptable, as it would
not deter getting back to the landing).


Just get a Zodiac. Designed for that use. A 16-footer will fit in the
trunk to most cars.

I'd like your expertise on
that. And, boat design suggestion too, I want something that looks good,
and works right - but no sailboat, something to take up to a 10 HP
outboard.


Something you leave out is how much work you're willing to put into it.
There are traditional methods that require that you "make the tool to make
the tool" before you start construction, and there are "quick build"
methods that require a lot less preparation. Either can produce a usable
and reasonably attractive boat in your size range, which you prefer depends
on your personality.

If you want it to look good--that lets out the Zodiac. When you say "lakes"
define "lakes"--the Great Lakes can kill oceangoing ships and are deep
enough for submarines to go do test depth. Crystal Lake down the road one
can easily swim across. How far into that lake are you planning to go?
Ditto "river"--the Saint Johns, which has maybe 20 feet of elevation
difference between the source and the mouth, is a very different critter
from the Colorado or the Snake, whose livelier parts can be safely
navigated only by experts in boats designed for the purpose. Sounds like
you're looking for a basic skiff, which these days are usually plywood on
frame or bulkhead, but local conditions may call for something else. How
good do you want it to look and how much effort do you want to put into it?
Bright finished mahogany strip plank is gorgeous but there's a lot of work
involved in keeping it that way. Marine ply is easy but it looks like
plywood. Can still look pretty good with good design and careful finish
though.

As for your leakage concern, the "traditional" carvel-plank construction
will generally "give" a little on impact and may spring the seams, which
makes for a slow leak. Ply or strip plank will either not leak at all or
get a real hole. Carvel plank though doesn't work very well for a trailer
boat as it depends on the wood swelling to close the seams so it will
always be leaking in a trailer boat. Traditional dory construction might
be a good option--they're designed to go in and out of the water and take a
beating and are remarkably seaworthy.

Obviously none of my ideas on the subkect are worth Jack,


If you've never spent much time on the water and you're setting out to
design one with no training, then you've got _that_ right. Not quite as
risky as setting out to design an airplane with no training, but close.

so
I need expert advice, before I commit to any materials purchasing, or
boatbuilding, because I obviously can't trust my sons' lives to my
knowledge, or lack thereof, of building boats. Help me Obi-Wan.


This is a question like "how high is up", a topic of endless discussion and
speculation. Something that I might find immensely appealing you might
dislike intensively. I'm not really into trailer boats anyway so I'd have
to do some research to come up with specifics.

Wooden Boat, Mystic Seaport Museum, and John Gardner, among others, have
books of study plans--go through those and you'll have some ideas and know
the names of many of the major designers. Most of these will be for
"traditional" construction. The "Glen L" site has a wide range of plans
intended for amateur construction, and they've been around long enough to
have established a track record. Not my cup of tea, but you might like.

JOAT

We've got a lot of experience of not having any experience.
- Nanny Ogg


--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)