DIYbanter - View Single Post - CAD for simple 3-D metal & wood projects?

Leon[_7_]

On 11/27/2013 8:31 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 08:26:27 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Anyway, I'll try again later in the day.
I did not change my address, replace dot with "."

Between the mortises, rabbets and Domino joinery, I don't know if I'd
have the patience to build the way you do. I guess once you develop
the system and get in the habit of using it, the rest just comes
naturally. It looks good and it's solidly built. I sure hope your
customers appreciate the quality of the products they get from you.
The everyday furniture I see up here is absolute junk compared to what
you build. Maybe I need to visit some good quality cabinet builders.

Was the dado extender jig, the one with the picture that had the Kreg
joinery? If you can email me If so, I wouldn't mind some additional
explanation. I have your proper email address and I've emailed you in
the past, but right now I still can't email you directly. If you can
email me, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

Seriously All of those joints are pretty simple with the Domino. You
just have to keep your **** together so that you don't screw up. ;~)

If anyone is going to screw up it would be me but so far after making
dozens of these face frames, no problems.

The back face frames are simple, I cut the dado's and or groves first.
Then I cut the rabbets that receive the back panels and form the joints
between the rails and stiles. The trick here is to cut the mating tenon
after cutting the rabbet with out moving your fence. The spacing for
the width of the rabbit is the same for the tenon. To cut the mating
tenon to fit the rabbet I simply mount my miter gauge and use the fence
as the stop for the length. All you have to change is the height of the
cut and I use a scrap to sneak up on that.

The trick to the Domino tenons is to simply dry fit the face frame after
all cuts have been made and mark the domino locations just like you
would with biscuits.

I use the tight fit setting on the Domino to cut the mortises on all
pieces that get the mortise in the end of the board. I use the middle
width setting on all of the pieces that receive the mortise on the edge
of the board. This gives me wiggle room.

A hint here, the 5 mm bit affords you the best fit when you only have
the 1/2" left over area under the rabbit. Also remember to reference
the same face when that you marked. don't turn the piece over so that
you can see what you are doing. ;~) The trick here is to remember to
make the Domino plunge and additional 12 mm to the normal 15 mm when
using the 5 mm x 30 mm domino. so that setting should be 27 mm. this
lets the bit cut 15 mm deep although it had to extend 12mm to start with
to cleat the edge of the rabbet and or tenon.

Clear as mud so far? ;~)

Anyway you would think that this would be difficult but I have not yet
had a miss fit.

Now if you have not guessed yet the front face frames and back face
frames dado's/groves have to mirror each other where the bottom, top and
side panels fit. During the cutting operation for the back and front
face frames it is critical that the back face frame pieces that receive
the tenon to fit the rabbet be "1 inch" longer than the same front face
frame parts. Remember that the tenon is 1/2" longer on each end for the
back face frame.

Any way after every thing is glued up you will notice that that the
groove/dado in the bottom/top rails butt up against the outer stiles.
This dado needs to extend to the dado in the stile. Cutting that short
distance across the outer stile needs to be done free hand so to speak.
Not a problem on the front face frame as it is not easily seen when
you look in the cabinet. The back face frame is another matter
altogether, you see that cut when you look inside the cabinet.
The dado jig in the picture makes completing that dado simple and fast
for both front and back face frames.

I sent you an e-mail using the address you used last year so you should
be able to return my e-mail for details if you want.