View Single Post
  #20   Report Post  
CW
 
Posts: n/a
Default Speaker box question

Glue and screw MDF together. If you drill proper pilot holes, screws hold
great. Not that they real have to hold anything. Glue a couple pieces of MDF
together with Titebond sometime then take a hammer to it. You will pulverize
the MDF before that glue joint fails.

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jul 2004 14:50:12 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" "Charles
wrote:

On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 18:07:55 -0400, Jay Pique

wrote:
On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 15:15:08 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message

OK, now for the questions. The front I plan to make a straight

vertical
strip about 2" high and then set the face at about 15 degrees. Any

reason
not to? Speakers will be mounted side by side.

I'm planning to use biscuits and glue it together.

Personally, I would use rabbet joints, glue and screws on speaker boxes

....
most of the top end speakers are made this way.

Would lock miters be as strong here? Any benefit? I'm just not sure
of the usefulness of screws in MDF. If the glue joint fails it seems
the screws would give loose too.


I've an old "how to make your box" book from JBL--probably still on
their website, as they still make "E-Series" components.

They specifically recommend lock mitres AND glue blocks.


But screws or no screws?

I've had good results just using glue block reinforced joints, and
running a bead of caulk along all the seams.


Lock mitres require a shaper, (I've seen router bits, but it seems a bit
hefty a job for a router table) which I don't have.


I see lock miter bits sold for the router from almost every
manufacturer. Anyone else have bad experiences in router tables?

JP