On 11/11/2013 07:49, RJH wrote:
On 11/11/2013 02:58, John Rumm wrote:

What problems have you had in the past? Perhaps we can suggest some tips
for better results...

Thanks all - think i'll give the mosaics a wide berth then. My 'cheap'
thinking was that it would either save me time.

Anyways, I'll get some plain 15cm ceramic tiles. And actually yes, the
last time I tried, bath to ceiling, the wall was very poor. While I did
make a horlicks of it, they did stay up for the 15 year I was there, and
remained watertight.

Any guides or pointers welcomed, especially for finishing, and the
worktop-meets-tile part.

My top tiling tips (and other alliterations) would be:

Tools:

Good quality score ans snap cutter, plus small plasplugs lekky wheel
cutter for awkward cutouts etc.

Decent notched trowel for glue spreading, not the plastic toy that comes
with the glue

Rubber faced grout float

Decent quality sponge (latex if possible) for finishing.

Bucket, and tub for mixing grout.


Materials:

Proper non slip tile glue *NOT* Tile 'n' Grout
(something that grouts like glue and sticks like grout)

Quality powdered self mix grout.

1) Layout. Plan carefully first, layout so that it looks right - don't
try to layout so you have to make the fewest cuts! Its much better to
have a 3/4 tile at both ends, then a full tile at one, and a half at the
other.

If the walls are not very square, avoid narrow rips of tiles near the
corner. (much easier to eye up)

When cutting for corners it often looks best it it appears that the
remainder of the tile "carries on" round the corner.

2) Fix a level batten to the wall at the bottom to work from - allow
space so that you fit the bottom row of tiles after. Don't assume the
floor is level - so aiming for approx 3/4 of a tile height at the bottom
will allow you to cut in to match a varying floor height. Spinning laser
levels are handy for getting a line round a room, and that's good for
making them all meet up at the corners.

3) With level walls, glue up a section of wall with ribbed trowel. Tile
first row with spacers - don't bother trying to place the "X" inthe
corner - just poke a leg into the gap, so that you can pull it free later.

As you do subsequent rows you can tweak the tile ends up and down a
fraction to stay level by rotating the spacers - they give a slightly
larger gap standing up rather than flat. (and two together flat gives an
increment on one on edge). Some tiles may vary a small amount in size -
so this lets you accommodate that.


4) Grouting: work grout into gaps with rubber float, and use it to
squeegee most of the excess off. Allow it to go off for a bit before
sponging off with the flat of a damp (not wet). Working it in circular
motions will clean the surface but not pull the grout out of the gaps.
Try to leave the grout smooth without any nicks or holes.

5) Once mostly dry sponge off residue and leave to dry completely. That
will leave a white film on the tiles. Polish this off with a *dry* cloth
or paper towels (if you try washing it off, it will dry with a white
film again!)

--
Cheers,

John.

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