I can't see why that would be necessary given a rip capacity larger that
the
full width of a sheet of plywood. I've certainly never required one and I
think it would be in the way. I've never considered it before so it is an
interesting question.

Howard,

Wouldn't that capacity be for cross cuts on plywood? Personally my 50"
capacity never gets used and that table is almost too big for my shop as
well. But I love that fence, its dead on accurate, well last time I checked
anyway.

Sincerely,
Rich











2) How much clearance would you like to have on all sides of the saw
beyond the tables?

I assume you mean clearance between the table edge and other machines
etc...
I butt my saw almost against the wall on the right hand side (extension
table for the rip fence). With 50+ inches of rip capacity, you don't
really
need clearance on that side. On all others - as much as I can get. Right
now I have 7 or eight feet on the left hand side, which is fine. I have
the
same in front of the saw and more if I open the overhead door. In winter
that can get a bit tight at times but overall it is acceptable. On the
ooufeed end I have a 4+ foot extension and 4 feet of clearance after it.
That isn't enought room. 3 more feet, at least, would be nice.

3) Is it worth it to have dust collection run under the slab? What
material and what size?

I would be afraid of plugging it up should bits get caught up in it. I
prefer to have complete access to mine, even though I have never had to
unplug it. Still, last week I was cleaning up the edge of a large piece
of
plywood using the stock throatplate and a surprisingly wide, and long,
sliver was almost completely sucked down. I was able to extract it
through
the throat plate after the saw stopped but it could jsut as easily have
broken off and become jammed in the duct I suppose.

4) Should I consider an alternative to running electrical under the
slab to feed the saw? If so, what is the alternative? Can the
outlets be flush to the slab surface?

I have a heavy gauge cable with a twist plug on mine. It plugs into an
outlet on the wall. I wouldn't have it any other way.

I'm thinking wall-mounted metal pipe for the rest of the dust
collection - comments?

Sure.

What about the Interior walls? Norm says to use wood so you can mount
anything anywhere - makes sense. What about OSB? It's cheap
(relatively), takes screws well and can be painted white. Comments?

I used T1-11 (or is it T-111 - I can never get that right) exterior
panelling. It looks great - especially with a nice color of deck stain on
it. I haven't stained mine but I've seen it done. Actually, left alone,
after a few years mine has a nice kind of patina on it. T1-11 is much
more
expensive than OSB unfortunately, but it is tongue and grooved so it goes
up nicely and you don't see the seams.

I like my huge windows the best. I have my bench right under one of them
and I can work without lights most of the time. This shop is 20 x 20 so
it
is too small. My last shop was 22 x 54 and it was way too friggin big. I
spent most of my time chasing tools and sweeping so I don't hold with the
bigger is better theory. However, I think (for me anyway) that 20 x 20
is
too small and that's what I like the least.

--

Cheers,
Howard

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Working wood in New Jersey -
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org