Thread: Menards
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Mike Marlow[_2_] Mike Marlow[_2_] is offline
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Default Menards

Casper wrote:
Plenty of experience with Menards. Most of it's pretty good, but
you do need to realize what you're getting in to. Their quality
range goes from the low and cheap to the mid-range.


This is why I was disappointed they did not have one set of doors on
display so people can see what they look like. Thay have tons of other
doors, including steel basement doors, just not these shed doors. I
really wanted to get an idea of their quality.

Last time we ordered something, they asked for my phone number and
e-mail address. They sent a tracking link to my e-mail address
(well, to a special one I give to companies that shouldn't be
asking.), but did not call when the order was in (and told me they
weren't going to). Puckdropper


My second concern is shipping mistakes or other delays. Six weeks will
put us right before Thanksgiving and any longer than that could be a
real problem for us weather wise. Ohio weather has been flakey the
last few years and this year all the almanac lovers are telling me
we're going to be getting our past due snow. Not what I am looking
forward to, for sure.


If you have a Menards in your area, then you also have both Lowes and Home
Depot. I know HD will fight for your business and will match/beat any
competitor's price - not sure about Lowes, but I'd bet they'd do the same.
I'd go in and talk to both. You'd be surprised at how fast they can make
things happen if they want to. It's worth the shot. I know that when I
worked at HD, we "had ways" of finding stuff on some rail car somewhere, to
fulfill a need like this. Just hold fast to Menard's pricing - and get a
better deal from HD. Don't let your time crunch cause you to lose out on a
discounted price.


Is it wise to cut away part of the lower sidewall of a shed and
replace it? Basically a 6-8 inch portion of the bottom all along both
sides has gotten quite wet and started falling apart. I thought about
a horizontal cut all across, removing the damaged part, then putting
in new wood and filling the gap line with filler, then paint. I'm just
not sure that's wise with all the water it gets.



If you had a water problem, you have a water problem. Fix that problem. Go
ahead with your idea but at the same time, install flashing under the siding
above the cut line and bend it out over the new piece. You have to provide
a water relief for the area that is evidenced as a problem area. Paint the
flashing if you want to make it less obvious. Even if you only flash from
under the good siding and down 1" over the seam of the new siding, you will
be vastly improved - assuming a good paint finish. A filler like you
suggest could indeed work, but you just have to make sure you get a really
good seal with the filler. Think of bathtub caulk - same principle. Good
water tight seal. It will work if done right.

--

-Mike-