On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 11:02:08 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 10/04/2013 05:31 PM, F. George McDuffee wrote:


If you are "free" hand tapping, that is without a tapping
machine or using the drill spindle, it is very helpful to
fabricate a tap block which can be as simple as a piece of
scrap metal with a hole the OD of the tap drilled
perpendicular in it to insure the tap is straight when it
starts. Quickly pays for itself with avoidance of broken
taps and scrap parts. Much less time to fabricate than
remove a busted tap from a part.

Store bought ones generally sized for cut not rolled thds

For a fancier one see
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...2571&category=
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3427&category=

If you are using the drill spindle/chuck see

high priced spread :-)
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/109...press-or-lathe

What I bought -- works a treat on both lathe, drill press,
and mill
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/cat...gory_id/22122/
[snip]

Do you disconnect the quill spring when using a drill press for tapping?

I don't know about using that tool above, but for taps clamped in the
chuck or collet, no, you don't remove the spring. It helps the tap to
back itself out cleanly. Just leave your hand on the ball as it taps,
providing an equalizing pressure to overcome the spring tension, then
remove it (I hover) for the backout. Piece o' cake.


How hard is it to do that and then reconnect it when done?

Tough. It's a hassle, but doable.

--
I hate being bipolar ....... It's awesome!