On 09/16/2013 01:36 PM, bud-- wrote:
On 9/16/2013 8:08 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 05:43:41 -0700 (PDT), Naomi Cezana
You ask a very good question. The 60 Watt limit is probably related
to the heat generated by the bulbs but could also be the current
limits of the sockets and wires. Only the original designer would
know for certain. Assuming it is the heat, new technologies like CFLs

It is the heat that is produced. For even 200 watts of power, almost any
wire that is big enough to attach to other wires will handle the current.
Often the rating is for the ammount of heat the wire is rated for.

I agree it is heat, not current. A minor addition for people not
familiar with wire ratings - it is the heat rating of the insulation of
the wire.

Heat is an issue not only for the lamp wiring, but the building wiring
behind the fixture.

Heat is also a major issue for the socket.

Would seem like 2 - 53W halogens would be OK.

=====================================
CFL, and particularly halogen, lamp manufacturers have a habit of lying
about what is an equivalent wattage. A 75W regular incandescent should
be at least 1100 lumens. (For a 60W - 800 lumens, 100W - 1600 lumens.)


Agreed, and less expensive light fixtures may not be rated for an incan
wattage that will put out enough light to properly light the room.
Check the stickers when purchasing - many fixtures spec a maximum of 40
or 60 watts, even if it's a big fixture. Table lamps are just as bad.

I was pleasantly surprised with the Philips L-Prize "60W equivalent" LED
"bulbs" which are actually slightly brighter than a traditional 60W
bulb. Of course I became aware of them, bought a few, liked them, then
they were promptly discontinued. you can still buy them on Amazon, but
at around $40 apiece... they were $15 at Home Despot for a while, but
you had to find a store that had them.

nate


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