On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 20:45:08 -0500, "Charlie Mraz"
wrote:

I have some questions regarding router table fabrication. I am in need of
an upgraded router table, and I have several options before me. I have a
tablesaw with an MDF/plastic laminate extension on BOTH sides, so there are
two possible locations. Thirdly, I could use some of the leftover laminate
(I bought a whole 4'x8' sheet and have about 4'x16" left) and MDF to make a
separate table top. That, of course, opens up several possibilities for
bases from folding sawhorses to hardwood legs, to a fully enclosed cabinet,
with or without storage, etc. What I have decided on is that I will not use
a plate. I prefer the smooth uninterrupted surface of a plateless top. The
router to be mounted is a P-C 8529 plunger. The questions that most concern
me are the details of mounting the router to the top. Is the preferred
method to relieve the underside in the shape of the base? To what
thickness? What about screws? I have had bad luck with flathead screws
pulling right through MDF before. Would a counterbore and panhead screws be
any better? As a point of information, I have read Pat Warner's webpage,
which is very informative, but leaves out several of these small details.
Also, what about provisions for template bushings? I believe the proper
opening is 1 9/16? What about depth/thickness? Any
information/opinion/reference/etc. will be greatly appreciated.

Charlie


when i built mine i had many of the same thoughts as you. however
after a short time i changed over to the plate style for 2 very good
reasons. 1- easier bit changes and setup. 2- i have several routers
set up to use the same table. by putting identical plates on these
routers i can setup to do raised panels using 3 bits and 3 routers.
this way if i miscount or mess up a piece there is no setup time
involved. simply drop in the appropriate router and make another part.
BTW i did my top out of corian so cutting out the plate was no small
task but the benefits were worth the labor.

skeez