I have some questions regarding router table fabrication. I am in need
of
an upgraded router table, and I have several options before me. I have
a
tablesaw with an MDF/plastic laminate extension on BOTH sides, so there
are
two possible locations. Thirdly, I could use some of the leftover
laminate
(I bought a whole 4'x8' sheet and have about 4'x16" left) and MDF to
make a
separate table top.

You're going to hang a router underneath - one you're going to tug
and push on adjusting bit height, installing bits etc., as well as
pressing down on firmly - on a 26-32+ inch wide span. I'd skip
MDF and maybe even 3/4" melamine.

There are hardwood supports at 16" intervals under the tablesaw extensions,
and I would probably do the same on a router table as well. Another
possibility would be to double the thickness of the MDF for the section
around the router.


That, of course, opens up several possibilities for
bases from folding sawhorses to hardwood legs, to a fully enclosed
cabinet,
with or without storage, etc.

If you go with "like with like" best to have a cabinet
with some drawers for bits, wrenches, collets, fence inserts
etc. If their with the router table you'll spend a lot less
time hunting for what you need.

What I have decided on is that I will not use
a plate. I prefer the smooth uninterrupted surface of a plateless top.

I'm guessing that at some point you're going to want/need
to use a 2 1/2 - 3 1/2" router bit so the opening in the table
top will have to be at least that big. But, without an insert,
using a 1/4" diameter bit will get hairy, especially on short
part and a guide collar will be impossible. You might want
to rethink your idea.

This is true and a good point. That is the one thing that appeals most to
me about a plate. The tab-loc system looks pretty slick, though I've never
put my hands on one. At any rate, if I decide at a later date to add a
plate, it is a trivial procedure, though it would be impossible to change
from a plate based setup to a plateless.

The
router to be mounted is a P-C 8529 plunger. The questions that most
concern
me are the details of mounting the router to the top. Is the preferred
method to relieve the underside in the shape of the base? To what
thickness? What about screws? I have had bad luck with flathead screws
pulling right through MDF before. Would a counterbore and panhead
screws be
any better? As a point of information, I have read Pat Warner's
webpage,
which is very informative, but leaves out several of these small
details.
Also, what about provisions for template bushings? I believe the proper
opening is 1 9/16? What about depth/thickness? Any
information/opinion/reference/etc. will be greatly appreciated.


When you start using a router table you'll find more and more
uses for it - IF options are built in. My guess is that you don't
know what uses will evolve over time. Go with what you know
now and you'll keep reinventing the wheel - many times.

At least have a look at the JoinTech site - the Cabinet Maker System,
table top, inserts, router mounting plate etc..
http://www.jointech.com/
May give you plenty of ideas to think about.

Has anyone ever tried to mount a router in a cast iron TS wing? That would
be pretty slick, if you could come up with a good way to mount some sort of
insert system....

Charlie