On 8/30/2013 9:35 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/30/2013 9:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel
with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the
fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02
??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is
further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade
closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the
one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should
be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have
written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and
the back.

__________________________________________________ ________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade


Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.


Actually you can mark a blade tip measure that tip with the tip at the
front or back of the table opening and then rotate the blade so that
that same marked tip is in the opposite location.

Just make certain you use the same blade tooth tip.