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Bill[_47_]

wrote:
Reminds me of a good tip. Make your reference/spacer marks as needed
on the jamb. Cut the trim to length using the inside length of the
miter, not the outside. Put both sides up, but DO NOT nail the last 8
inches around the miter joint, just make sure the trim is on your
mark. Measure the outside length of the top piece (the horns if you
will) to get an overall outside measurement. If the sides are not 100%
attached, you can move them very slightly back and forth to improve
the appearance of your miter joints. This may be necessary as NO door
is ever installed completely square or completely plumb. Attach the
top piece with a nail in the center of the trim, inspect your joints,
adjust/trim as needed and if necessary put a nail (predrilled of
course!) into the miter joint. I would suggest a 3d for that joints as
needed. Once you are satisfied with the fit, complete the attachment
of the trim.

Robert,

I just wanted to thank you again for the guidance above. I surely helped
the appearance of my work and made the work much less aggravating then
it would have otherwise been. Without your suggestions I confess I
probably would have worked out 45-degree miters on the ground, and then
struggled from there... probably clockwise (LOL!)

Bill

Anyone reading this who may encase a door, take note of the
technique--especially concerning the top piece.