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Tom Red Tom Red is offline
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Default Dayton 8-1/8 jointer - bed rusty - knives chipped

Thanks for the quick reply. See below.

On Saturday, August 24, 2013 2:16:32 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 8/24/2013 1:35 PM, Tom Red wrote:

I bought a Dayton 6 and 1/8" Jointer ...discovered the there was a


gouge in all three knives-- ...


"Stuff happens..."

Now I'm not sure if I should try to have them ground down to new
metal or buy new knives. I've poked around a little-- I don't see them on the


web after 15 minutes looking, but they might be harder to find than

that. Supposedly, Grainger has parts for these machines.


I was about to post a reply to my own post, saying that I dialed the 800 number in the manual and found myself talking to Grainger. They showed the knives available for $40.05. With shipping and tax, that's about $52, but I figured, as long as I have them on the phone, I'll just order a set. Maybe I can have the original set ground back to usability, then I'll have spares..

I had done searches on Grainger's site, but searching for stuff on a vendor's page can be pretty frustrating. I found nothing. But they found it on the phone easily enough.


They can be reground at least a couple of times if they're not the

flimsy replaceable type -- take actual measurements and let us know what
they are in width and thickness and if are any notches at the bottom
edge for adjusting/leveling screw as some old Rockwell/Delta machines had..

I will do that, once I get them out to replace them. Explain more about these notches??

It came with a knife gauge-- a sort of beam shaped thing with a 3/8" rod connecting two pieces that straddle the drum/cutting head with a pad in the middle that is slightly lower than the rest. The blade is supposed to touch the pad. The gauge is all metal, none of this plastic junk, so it's probably accurate.

The divot in the knives is 1-1/4 inch from the motor end and nearly


1/8" wide. It looks pretty shallow, but I just ran a piece through there

and it leaves a nasty hump in the workpiece.



Any ideas? Is there a standard 6-1/8" blade I can use that works as


well or better than the originals?




A) Get them reground by a good shop that has the facility to do them
correctly -- they needs must be straight and ideally take the same
amount off each for balance.



Where are you located? I've at least one if not two old 6" sets that

I'm in southeastern Wisconsin.

I've no need for since don't have the 6" jointer any longer -- I'd have
to look; I think one set was resharpened and not used; the other is
probably not much better than the ones you have but I'd let 'em both go
reasonable if interested as they've just been in the cabinet in shop for

If I can't get the current set ground to usefulness, I'll have to take you up on that. I think the guy said he only used it a few times, so maybe the knives have never been sharpened.

20 yr now.

Also the bed has rusty streaks going the long way. How best to clean

that up? I'd like to put a little paste wax on the bed and fence because
there's a lot of friction moving the work through there. The streaks
don't go all the way from end-to-end, but maybe 1/3 to 2/3 the length of
the bed centered on the drum.

How does one clean something like that up?


My favorite is to simply start w/ lubricant (even water is good enough;
choose whatever you want from the ubiquitous WD-40 to anything similar
avoiding silicon-based stuff) and wet/dry 240 or so paper. Move up to
400 or so as get the surface rust off and it'll shine/feel good as the
proverbial bottom of the newborn.


Great! Sounds doable. Think I need to back the paper with a block to keep it flat? Or maybe wrap some 240 w/d around a sanding sponge?

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