On 8/23/2013 10:32 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 16:43:01 -0700, Norminn wrote:

On 8/22/2013 10:30 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
Ok, guys, here's the challenge: What to do to prevent brush strokes.
And, don't tell me roll it on, because that just makes the 'brush'
strokes different, less controllable, and a giant mess if not careful.


Anything can be a giant mess if not careful...

Problem: After painting, the wall looks like corduroy! Using 'high
quality' paint from Dunn Edwards. I'm fighting brush strokes like gang
busters! Perhaps, it is because the paint is a bit tacky within 10
seconds, and 'dry' to the touch within a minute !! No wonder the paint
can't flatten BEFORE it's dry!

Dry within a minute? Never heard of an interior paint drying that
fast...is this new, fresh, well mixed, applied at temp./surface
according to label instructions? Sun or wind? Interior or exterior?
Drywall?

Actions to date:
I added Floetrol, from Home Depot. That, just changed the color a bit.
and cost a lot. Seems like coating the wall with Floetrol and a little
paint.
I added Glass Cleaner, cheap from Walmart, Not bad, getting closer.

Glass cleaner?!??

Almost works.
Have not tried adding a bit of distilled water, yet.

What does the label say?


Background:
Consider the Dunn Edwards paint left by the painters circa 2010 - use
sparingly, keep for perfect matching, call it Paint A
Also, consider the 'new' Dunn Edwards paint same color, but they admit
to 'slight' change in color nomenclature, call it Paint B.

Dunn Edwards is a brand. Which product(s) are you using?

Smell of Paint A is pungent, rarely have to stir it in its 5 gal bucket,
and NEVER leaves a paint stroke. That stuff comes out FLAT!

Smell of Paint B is pungent [but different], have to stir each day
before use, and ALWAYS leaves paint strokes.


Need a solution:
What I need is a 'wetting' chemical that makes/allows the paint to go
flat BEFORE it dries.
Should I add Jet-Dri?

What does the label say? How does the label dry/cure time compare to
your results? If you have followed the label and results are bad,
contact the paint store (not HD or Lowes, I hope) or the mfg. Let us
know what you find out.

This is interesting:
http://www.dunnedwards.com/Homeowner...x?problemid=19




Glass Cleaner? Back in the 70's then living in California, when water
base was just gaining foothold, I fought brush strokes, gumming, and
basically thought the stuff was some kind of rip off. UNTIL! I used some
of our Easy Off Window Cleaner, came in a yellow can, cleaning glass it
never left a streak, beat Windex hands down [Easy Off corp discontinued
the product !!] Originally, if I found a run [usually around some odd
structure shape where the brush squeegeed too much paint] I was screwed.
Had to wait hours and hours to dry, then sand down and recoat to remove
the run. Also, continually fought 'gumming' could not brush out a 'bad'
stroke without doing damage to the 'wet' paint. Outof desparation, I
sprayed EasyOff Window Cleaner onto the surface and it magically turned
the paint back into a liquid - I could take out a run, flatten a stroke,
rework, essentially do ANYTHING I wanted to the water base paint. I
found I could even rework a surface more than 6 hours after completing.
So if I found something I didn't like, simply spray, paint, and done
FLAT!! And that's when I started going extreme: paint, wet 'n' dry
sand, paint and end up with a surface that looked like commercial grade,
formica flat. Within a year, the wood grain would reassert itself so the
look came out beautiful.

It was during this time, I gave up on rollers, the cut in left marks,
the stipple left patterns, and damage from trying to rework a semi-dry
area left 'unfogriveable' cottage cheese on the walls! Absolutely worse
than a brush! Best was an artist air brush and oil base paint, now that
was nice, especially for doing the trim around the windows in the french
doors.

Using Dunn Edwards in order to match color already used: Dunn Edwards
W6240 WERSAFLAT base.

For what's it's worth, a 'close' color match from Home Depot yielded the
same battles with brush strokes. Even their high end exterior masonry
paint [different color and over stucco] does the same.

Thank you for that URL. Not a lot of real information there except to
decry competitors 'cheaper' products not working well, EXCEPT, the web
info does say that high temperature and low humidity cause trouble. They
don't give humidity number, but do mention 90 degrees, I assume that's
Fahrenheit.

Interior home is anywhere from 82 to 89 degrees [also Fahrenheit] and
being in the desert, humidity is usually in the 10-16% ranges, plus run
a bit of AIR and probably even lower.

That may be PART of your problem. I wonder where/how you stored what was
left of the original paint...garage, very high temp?

Ok, so last night I just poured in the water to thin [guess at less than
10% increase in volume] until the stirring stick has run-off like
low-fat milk. Painted, and can verify VERY thin, because left drops on
the floor EVERYWHERE about every 4 inches. STILL VERY DISAPPOINTING!
Dried more slowly, took around 10 minutes or less to be able to touch
the surfaces. But the results were just 'less' corduroy.

That is plain crazy....no modern paint is supposed to run like low-fat
milk. Most are like thick cream. It is beginning to seem that you
haven't the faintest idea what the label says or why it says what it does.

If you are painting plain, flat interior drywall, I think it would be
best to sand the wall with fine sandpaper and start over with fresh
paint from a good brand paint store. The nonsense of drying in 10 sec.
or being so runny is just ridiculous.

I wish I knew what the professional people had done to that paint. Can't
locate people with all those realestate bubble bursting bankruptcies.
Know they sprayed it on. Oddly that paint which leaves almost no brush
strokes does not seem to need a lot of stirring, nor does it drip off
the brush, just 'miracle' stuff.

Paint ALWAYS needs stirring....perhaps the reason you got no brush marks
from that paint is that you used the thinner, upper part of the liquid
and left the heavy solids in the bottom

I would not bother painting unless I used quality (yes, expensive)
paint, roller and/or brush. Good brushes are expensive, but with proper
care will last a lifetime. That said, it takes time and practice to
gain skill at painting...most of the paint companies have all kinds of
tips for choosing product, clear instructions for use, and
skill-building advice. A good paint store can also advise what
additives are useful or beneficial...a business with experience knows
what the sell and how to use it best. Good luck!


I need a chemical wetting agent that keeps this paint from drying out
too fast.